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A Comprehensive Analysis of Value Chain Integration in the
Varanasi Handloom Cluster (Silk Sarees), Uttar Pradesh
Lipi Singh
Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion Management Studies, National Institute of Fashion
Technology, Raebareli, India
DOI: https://dx.doi.org/10.51584/IJRIAS.2025.101100022
Received: 12 November 2025; Accepted: 20 November 2025; Published: 06 December 2025
ABSTRACT
The purpose of this study is to examine the value chain of the Varanasi silk saree industry, one of India’s most
celebrated handloom clusters, and identify the major gaps that affect its overall efficiency, competitiveness,
and long-term sustainability. The research adopts a value-chain-based analytical approach to trace the journey
of the product from raw silk procurement to dyeing, weaving, finishing, and final market distribution. Within
this process, the study evaluates recurring challenges such as inconsistent raw material availability, heavy
dependence on intermediaries, limited transparency at multiple stages, and inadequate adoption of modern
technologies. It also reviews support-related issues, including restricted access to finance, limited exposure to
modern equipment, weak logistics systems, and insufficient direct market linkages, all of which significantly
reduce operational efficiency and limit the bargaining power of weavers. The findings indicate that the value
chain suffers from fragmentation, low levels of digital integration, and weak coordination among stakeholders,
resulting in reduced productivity and constrained growth opportunities. These inefficiencies collectively
contribute to declining competitiveness in both domestic and global markets. The study concludes that
strengthening the Varanasi handloom value chain requires a combination of digital adoption, improved
coordination mechanisms, targeted policy support, and skill-building initiatives aimed at enhancing both
productivity and transparency. Implementing these interventions can not only improve the value chain’s
performance but also uplift the socio-economic conditions of artisans and ensure the continued cultural and
economic significance of the Varanasi silk saree sector.
Keywords: Varanasi silk sarees; Handloom value chain; Value chain challenges; Weaver livelihood; Value
chain efficiency
INTRODUCTION
India has a strong cultural and craft heritage and is one of the world’s major producers of handloom goods.
Small-scale and craft-based industries remain globally significant, with 9095% of manufacturing units
employing fewer than 100 workers; in Japan, 84% fall under the SME category. The Indian handloom sector
is the second-largest employment provider after agriculture, engaging over 6 million (60 lakh) artisans.
Each region has a distinct identityVaranasi for Banarasi silk, Bihar for Bhagalpur silk, and Telangana for
Pochampally Ikat. Despite its importance, the handloom sector faces serious value chain constraints. Raw
materials like silk and zari often come from distant markets, causing 2030% price fluctuations and delays.
The value chain is long and fragmented, involving 46 intermediaries, which reduces transparency and leaves
weavers with only 3040% of the final product’s value. Limited credit access prevents 7080% of weavers
from upgrading technology, and outdated looms reduce productivity by 2535%. Weak logistics further add to
510% losses during transit. Competition from power looms and counterfeit products diminishes market
credibility and restricts value capture by genuine artisans.
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Fig. 1 Handloom Weaving
About Varanasi Silk Sarees:
A Banarasi saree is a traditional silk saree produced in Varanasialso known as Benaras or Kashi. The craft
gained prominence during the Mughal period in the 14th century, when Banaras artisans became known for
weaving intricate silk brocades with gold and silver zari. By the 18th and 19th centuries, Banarasi weaving had
further evolved in skill and popularity. Renowned for their rich silk, fine hand weaving, and luxurious gold and
silver brocade, Banarasi sarees are considered among India’s finest textiles. They feature densely woven silk
adorned with elaborate patterns, contributing to their enduring demand. Typical design elements include
interwoven floral and foliate motifs, kalga and bel patterns, and the signature jhallara row of upright leaves
along the border. Other distinctive features include gold work, compact weaving, intricate figurative detailing,
metallic sheen, pallu designs, jal (net-like patterns), and meena work.
Varanasi Brocade
Varanasi brocade derives its name from the Latin word brochus, meaning “to transfix. The fabric is created
by weaving fine silk yarns as warp and weft, enriched with gold and silver threads (zari). The weft passes over
and under selected warp threads according to the design, producing raised, ornate patterns. Varanasi brocades
are known for their lavish motifs, use of premium materials, and labor-intensive production. The zari used in
these brocades is a traditional variety crafted in Varanasi for centuries.
Fig. 2.1a Banarasi Brocade
Varieties of Banarasi Silk
Varanasi has several weaving hubs, with Alaipura, Madanpura and Bazardiah being the prominent centers.
Madanpura is known for traditional, fine, delicate patterns, while Alaipura weavers often experiment with new
techniques and bold designs. Madanpura fabrics are generally lighter and more refined in finish. Other
weaving clusters include Pilikothi, Lohta, Lallapura, , Khojwan, and Rewari Talab. Kalabattu refers to silk
yarn plated with gold or silver. One of the most well-known brocade varieties is Kinkhab, where the silk base
is almost hidden under heavy gold and silver threads, creating a rich, ornate fabric used mainly for upholstery.
Types of kinkhab include Alfi, Tashi, Baftan/Katan, Pot-Than, Himru, and Amru. Other notable Banarasi
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weaving styles include Amru, Jamdani, Tanchoi, Cutwork, Katan, Kora, Mashru, and Rangkat, each
known for distinct patterns and weaving techniques. Most designs draw inspiration from naturesuch as buti,
badam, and kairi (paisley) motifsreflecting the traditional aesthetic of the region. Banarasi silk designs draw
heavily from nature, featuring motifs known as butis or butas. These single, intricately woven motifs add
richness and identity to each saree. Common motifs include badam buti (almond), kairi buti (paisley),
chaand buti (moon), asharfi buti (coin), paan buti (betel leaf), and pankha (fan). These motifs, combined
with vibrant colours and traditional patterning, contribute to the timeless elegance of Varanasi silk sarees.
Banarasi Sarees received their GI tag on 04
th
Sep, 2009, under the registered name of "Banaras Brocades
and Sarees".
Fig. 2.2a An artist weaving the saree
Motifs and Design in Banarasi Weaving
In Banarasi weaving, careful spacing and alignment of motifs is crucial to maintain harmony across the fabric.
Geometrical patterns such as Khanjari (chevron), Ari Doria (diagonal/straight lines), and Charkhana
(checks) are often incorporated to structure the design. The most common motifs are buti or buta, which are
floral elements woven across the fabric body. These are inspired by flowers and leaves, including pan (betel
leaf), kairi (mango), tara (star), ashrafi (coin-shaped), phul (generic flower), chameli (jasmine), champa,
genda (marigold), guldaudi (chrysanthemum), and gulab (rose). Butis are further classified by the number
of petals, such as Satpatia (seven petals), Tinpattia (three petals), and Panchpatiya (five petals). In
addition to flowers, creepers (bel) are often woven to enhance the overall motif composition.
Porter’s Value Chain Model :
Value Chain has been interpreted in multiple ways by different scholars; however, the definition adopted for
this study is that of Michael Porter (1985), who conceptualized the Value Chain as a system of interdependent
and interconnected activities that collectively create value. Value Chain Analysis, therefore, involves a
systematic examination of an organization’s activities and competencies to understand how they contribute to
competitive advantage. According to Porter, an organization’s competitive strength lies in its ability to deliver
superior value to customers, which he explained through a framework comprising five primary activities
inbound logistics, operations, outbound logistics, marketing and sales, and serviceand four support activities,
namely firm infrastructure, human resource management, technology development, and procurement. In the
context of Varanasi Silk Sarees and Brocade, the production value chain encompasses multiple intricate stages.
Production typically takes place either on a work-order basis, driven by specific client requirements, or based
on anticipated market demand.
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Fig. 3a Porter’s Value Chain Model
Inbound Logistics:
Inbound logistics refers to the processes through which materials and goods are ordered, received, stored,
transported, and managed within an organization. It encompasses a series of activities, including sourcing and
procurement, purchasing, transportation, receiving, material handling, warehousing, inventory management,
expediting, distribution, tracking, and reverse logistics. In the context of the Varanasi silk weaving cluster,
inbound logistics operates through a distinctive system shaped by local market structures. The procurement of
raw materials - primarily silk yarn - is regulated by shopkeepers, gaddidars, business houses, NGOs,
middlemen, and, most significantly, master weavers. Local traders typically assess the type and quantity of silk
yarn required and facilitates its purchase. Master weavers, who play a central coordinating role, obtain work
orders from gaddidars and business houses, based on which they procure yarn from the local market.
Depending on the arrangement, they may receive both the raw material and the design specifications along
with the work order, or they may independently determine the design and procure the necessary inputs. Once
the raw materials are secured, master weavers distribute work to weavers on a piece-rate or daily-wage basis.
The wages and estimated time required to complete a particular design are predetermined before the weaving
process begins. After the saree or textile piece is woven, the finished product is collected by the master weaver
and delivered back to the gaddidars or the commissioning party. Thus, inbound logistics in the Varanasi silk
cluster is characterized by decentralized procurement practices, strong intermediary roles, and an informal yet
highly coordinated flow of materials from traders to weavers.
Fig. 3.1a Inbound Logistics
Outbound Logistics:
Outbound logistics refers to the processes involved in the movement of finished goods from producers to end
users, encompassing activities such as packaging, distribution, transportation, order fulfilment, and delivery. In
the Varanasi silk weaving cluster, outbound logistics functions through a decentralized and informal system, as
most production takes place within household-based units rather than formal enterprises. Master weavers and
artisans store finished sarees in their homes due to the absence of dedicated warehouses. Typically, each
master weaver keeps 25 - 30 sarees and distributes additional stock across the homes of other artisans,
effectively functioning as small-scale distributors within the cluster.
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Master weavers supply these finished products primarily to gaddidars, who operate as local wholesalers and
act as intermediaries between weavers, middlemen, and larger buyers such as retail stores, showrooms, and
handloom houses. This intermediary-driven structure results in a high degree of fragmentation and dependency,
leaving artisans vulnerable to pricing pressures. Gaddidars usually provide partial payment upon receiving the
stock and settle the full amount only after selling the sarees to retailers or traders. Master weavers typically
price their products about 20% above the production cost when selling to wholesalers and offer approximately
a 5% discount to direct customers. Orders placed well in advance, especially those requiring 4 - 6 months of
lead time, are priced around 30% higher to account for holding periods. Although some artisans sell through
online platforms, the volume remains minimal due to concerns about design duplication.
Packaging is minimal, generally involving a plastic cover and a hard paper box to protect the saree.
Transportation is managed directly by the artisans, who use personal vehicles such as bicycles and motorcycles
or rely on public transport, thereby incurring only fuel or fare-related expenses. Delivery times correspond to
the travel duration from the artisan’s home to the buyer’s location. If finished products are not sold on time,
they become dead stock; these items are often over-dyed into darker shades to match market demand or
repurposed for personal use, such as making salwar suits or curtains. This adaptive approach to managing
unsold inventory highlights the cluster’s reliance on informal logistical arrangements and flexible utilization of
resources.
Silk Procurement and Pre-Processing in the Banarasi Handloom Value Chain (Operations):
Silk procurement and pre-processing form the foundational stage of the Banarasi handloom value chain. High-
quality mulberry silk yarns, primarily sourced from Bangalore in grey form, are selected in varying deniers
depending on the desired fabric structure, motif complexity, and zari integration. Upon arrival in Banaras, the
yarns undergo degumming, where sericin and surface impurities are removed through controlled boiling with
soap and alkali, resulting in enhanced luster, softness, and dye receptivity. The cleaned yarns are then dyed
using acid, reactive, or metal-complex dyes, with dyers ensuring shade uniformity through continuous manual
rotation and subsequent air-drying. After dyeing, the yarns move to winding and warping units, where they are
converted from hank to cone form, arranged systematically on warping frames, and transferred onto beams
with lease rods inserted to maintain thread order. Parallelly, weft yarnsincluding silk and zariare prepared
through bobbin and pirn winding. The design process involves creating motif graphs (naksha) on graph paper,
which are translated into Jacquard punch cards for loom programming. Finally, the processed warp is mounted
on traditional pit looms, passed through healds and reeds, and tied to the front rod to initiate weaving. This
integrated pre-processing workflow ensures that the yarn attains the structural and aesthetic readiness required
for the intricate brocade weaving characteristic of Banarasi sarees.
Fig. 3.3a Degumming of Silk Hank Fig. 3.3b Drying of Silk Hanks after Degumming
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Fig. 3.3c Dyed Silk Hanks
Fig. 3.3d Warping & Beaming
Fig. 3.3e Bobbin Winding & Pirn Winding
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Fig. 3.3f Punch Card
Marketing & Sales:
The key clients of the silk weaving clusters at Varanasi are traders, retail store owners, and wholesalers.
Individual customers purchase products either directly from artisans or through local retail shops and
wholesalers. Gaddidars act as intermediaries, sourcing finished products from master weavers and supplying
them to retailers and wholesalers. They typically add a 20% profit margin, while retailers add around 15%,
resulting in market prices being approximately 25% higher than the original value. Master weavers regularly
follow up with gaddidars for payments. While payments are smoother during festive seasons, they often get
delayed during market downturns. In such periods, social capital becomes essential, enabling master weavers
to access raw materials and maintain cash flow through their networks. Payment delays occur because
gaddidars release payments only after their purchased stock is sold. Master weavers are central to the cluster
because they help maintain low transaction costs and rely heavily on social network - an important factor in
this labor-intensive sector. Although they control the production process, they have limited influence over the
marketing and promotion of finished goods due to the credit-based structure of the cluster. During market
collapses, payment recovery becomes especially difficult, and master weavers must wait for market conditions
to improve before receiving their dues. Their limited awareness of digital tools and online selling platforms
further restricts their ability to reach buyers directly. This gap, rooted in the low literacy rates within the
weaving community, contributes to prolonged payment cycles and reduced earning potential.
Services:
Customers can choose from a wide range of silk sarees, and a significant portion of the products is exported to
international markets. Although Varanasi sarees do not carry an official hallmark, authenticity is commonly
verified through a burn test, in which genuine silk emits the smell of burnt hair and leaves a fine ash residue.
Despite handloom products being exempt from GST, retailers generally do not offer discounts, regardless of
whether purchases are made in single pieces or in bulk. Post-purchase feedback is limited; South Indian
customers rarely provide feedback, while many domestic customers rely on long-standing relationships with
traditional shops. In case of product-related issues, sarees are replaced, though repairs are usually not required
for silk sarees. Retailers also offer additional services such as fall polishing, home delivery, complimentary
gifts on purchase, and multiple transportation options, including air, rail, and platforms like IndiaMART.
Support Activities:
Human Resource Management: The cluster primarily relies on family labor, with business owners
hiring their family members and close relatives to support production and related activities. Task
allocation is centrally managed by master weavers, who oversee work distribution and monitor
performance.
Procurement: Raw material sourcing has shifted significantly after the COVID-19 outbreak. Earlier,
most inputs were imported from China; currently, master weavers procure raw materials from Bengaluru
and local markets to ensure uninterrupted production.
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Technological Development: Production continues to depend largely on traditional weaving techniques.
Designs are developed through manual exploration and experimentation, with limited adoption of digital
or advanced technological tools.
Infrastructure: Overall activities are coordinated and supervised by shopkeepers, gaddidars, and export
houses, which control procurement, distribution, and marketing channels. Master weavers maintain direct
communication with traders and gaddidars to manage orders and market requirements.
Family-Based Work Structure: The workflow within the cluster is structured around family systems,
planned and regulated by senior weavers or master weavers. Quality management is conducted in-house,
where both weavers and master weavers inspect finished products before they move into the market.
Silk Mark:
The Silk Mark helps consumers identify genuine silk products, addressing the long-standing challenge of
distinguishing pure silk from other fibers. Introduced on 17 June 2004, it is promoted by the Silk Mark
Organization of India (SMOI), a registered society under the Karnataka Societies Act, jointly supported by
the Central Silk Board, the Ministry of Textiles, and the Government of India. Silk Mark labels come as
paper hang tags or sew-in labels, applied only to authentic silk by authorized users. Each label carries a
hologram and unique number, enabling consumers to trace the product to the manufacturer.
Objectives of Silk Mark:
Protect consumer interests.
Safeguard authentic silk traders and manufacturers.
Promote the use of natural silk nationally and globally.
Fig. 4 Silk Mark
Handloom Mark:
The Handloom Mark, inaugurated on 28 June 2006 by former Prime Minister Dr. Manmohan Singh,
promotes India’s handloom sector by ensuring product quality and authenticity. Designed by NID
Ahmedabad, the mark helps distinguish hand-woven textiles from power-loom products, which cannot be
verified through conventional testing. The Handloom Mark represents the heritage and tradition of Indian
handloom textiles and supports the livelihoods of over 6.5 million weavers. It creates a distinct identity for
hand-woven products, enabling them to compete in the market while preserving traditional skills.
Registration Process:
Applicants must register and declare the number of handlooms and products they produce.
The product is then verified, and the appropriate label is issued.
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Key Features and Benefits:
Ensures product quality and authenticity.
Facilitates product testing and ISO certification.
Promotes social accountability.
Helps distinguish handloom items from power-loom products.
Fig. 5 Handloom Mark
RESEARCH METHODOLOGY:
Research Objectives:
The objective of this study is to examine and analyze the existing marketing practices of the handloom cluster
and to propose strategies that can enhance the market visibility of Banarasi sarees, develop a niche market for
these silk products, and recommend effective promotional approaches to strengthen the cluster’s connection
with consumers and improve the overall economic prospects of its weavers.
Problem Statement:
The Banarasi handloom struggles with limited market visibility and reliance on traditional marketing,
restricting direct engagement with consumers and growth opportunities for its weavers. Developing innovative
marketing strategies is essential to enhance market presence, promote the craft, and ensure sustainable cluster
development.
Research Design:
The study adopts an exploratory and descriptive research design to understand the functioning of the Silk
weaving craft and analyze the practices, processes, and business systems associated with it. This approach
enables a detailed exploration of the craft ecosystem while documenting current conditions and identifying
potential areas for improvement.
Research Data:
The study is based on both secondary and primary data. Secondary data were collected from research journals,
academic articles, and relevant case studies, along with credible online sources such as ODOP, Utsavpedia,
and the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts). Primary data were obtained through direct field
observations and structured interviews using questionnaires administered to artisans, suppliers, retailers, and
customers.
Sample Design:
The sample design included diverse stakeholders from the Silk weaving craft ecosystem. The sample
population comprised artisans, suppliers, retailers and small-scale vendors, exporters, banks, and customers.
Cluster sampling was employed to select artisans within the identified craft clusters, while Purposive
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sampling was used for retailers, suppliers, exporters, banks, and consumers to ensure the inclusion of
knowledgeable respondents. A total of 20 individuals were approached, and all 20 valid responses were
successfully collected.
Analysis
Marketing Mix Analysis:
Product: The weaving cluster’s product mix is predominantly silk-based, with sarees as its core
offering. Other product lines include fabrics, shawls, dupattas, stoles, kidswear, dress materials, and
curtains. While the clusters at Varanasi are traditionally known for silk sarees, it has gradually
diversified into broader apparel and upholstery categories, strengthening its presence within the
Varanasi handloom market.
Place: Product distribution is concentrated in local markets; supported by direct selling from the clusters,
retailers, wholesalers, exhibitions, trade fairs, and limited sales through WhatsApp. Despite these
channels, the cluster’s market reach remains largely local, with minimal penetration into wider regional
or digital markets.
Price: Pricing is primarily cost-based, offering very low margins to weavers. Limited production
volumes elevate operating costs, resulting in higher final prices. The cluster currently follows no
structured pricing strategy, leading to inconsistency and weak competitiveness.
Promotion: The clusters lack a formal promotional framework and do not engage in advertising across
offline or online platforms. Visibility relies mainly on organic demand and occasional seasonal or
festive designs, reflecting a significant gap in strategic promotion.
Porter’s Value Chain Analysis:
The key activities in Porter’s (1985) framework include inbound logistics, operations, outbound logistics,
marketing & sales, and service. In the handloom craft sector, inbound logistics, operations, and outbound
logistics form the core production functions, which are carried out either on a work-order basis or based on
anticipated market demand. The mode of production directly shapes marketing strategies. In work-order-based
production, wholesale customers, export houses, business houses, and designers place orders through
shopkeepers or gaddidars. In market-anticipation production, artisans create products according to seasonal
trends and trader demand, selling finished goods through retail shops, exhibitions, trade fairs, or occasionally
to gaddidars. Marketing and sales are primarily managed by gaddidars, shopkeepers, and retailers, who
distribute products through physical outlets, exhibitions, and digital platforms such as WhatsApp.
Regardless of the model, weavers - the creators of these handloom products - receive the lowest wages on a
daily basis, while profit margins increase for actors higher up the chain, reaching a maximum for those selling
directly to consumers. Weavers are often reluctant to work with unfamiliar buyers due to previous issues with
payments. Implementing an end-to-end value chain could significantly enhance their earnings and ensure the
sustainability of both the craft and the artisan community. Contemporary models, which involve shorter value
chains, already show higher earnings for weavers compared to traditional models. However, few organizations
are willing to engage directly with weavers and manage timely delivery of quality products. One potential
solution is to identify progressive weavers and provide them with support and resources to showcase and sell
their work directly. Modifying the value chain in this way can improve weavers’ livelihoods, strengthen craft
sustainability, and enhance competitive advantage through better design, execution, and marketing of the
products.
GAPS: Marketing Strategies of the Cluster
The cultural and traditional value of Banarasi silk sarees has been successfully preserved through generations,
and customers recognize the importance of acquiring these products from authentic sources. This presents a
significant opportunity for handloom weavers in Banaras to directly engage with consumers and enhance the
craft’s reach. To capitalize on this potential, the cluster must increase market visibility and adopt dynamic
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marketing strategies. Effective marketing interventions can support the growth of weavers and artisans while
fostering a direct connection between the craft and its customers, ensuring both economic sustainability and
the preservation of traditional expertise.
Solution
To address the gaps identified in the value chain of Banarasi silk sarees and ensure the sector’s long-term
sustainability, a revised marketing mix is proposed. The recommendations aim to preserve traditional
craftsmanship, enhance market access and strengthen the economic and social support systems for artisans.
The suggested marketing mix is outlined below:
Product: The cluster’s offerings remain largely traditional, limiting engagement with new customer
segments. Strategic product diversification into lifestyle and décor itemssuch as table mats, runners,
coasters, cushion covers, and wall hangingscan broaden market appeal and enhance visibility.
Strengthening the presentation and branding of existing sarees will further elevate their market position.
Place: Market reach is currently confined to local traders and nearby markets. Expanding distribution
through multi-seller e-commerce platforms (e.g., Craftsvilla, Etsy) and strengthening sales via social
media and WhatsApp commerce will enable access to wider national and international audiences.
Price: Positioning the products within a premium pricing segment is feasible due to their craftsmanship
and cultural value. Implementing structured pricing strategies based on product category, exclusivity, and
workmanship will support better revenue realization.
Promotion: A coordinated mix of digital and offline promotion and training to use the same is
essential. Online marketing through social media campaigns, targeted advertisements, and visual
storytelling, combined with offline initiatives such as craft fairs and exhibitions, will enhance visibility,
stimulate demand, and support product range expansion.
RECOMMENDATIONS
To ensure the long-term sustainability and growth of Banarasi Silk Sarees, several strategic recommendations
can be implemented. These strategies aim to enhance market presence, support artisans, preserve traditional
skills and raise consumer awareness. Here are the key recommendations:
Strengthening Marketing and Branding:
Brand Identity Development: Establish a unified and distinctive brand identity for Banarasi silk sarees
that highlights their cultural legacy, craftsmanship and exclusivity. Ensuring consistent application across
packaging, communication materials and digital platforms to enhance visibility and consumer recall.
Narrative-Driven Promotion: Integrating storytelling into marketing efforts to communicate the heritage,
artistry and cultural relevance of Banarasi weaving. Authentic narratives can deepen consumer
engagement and elevate perceived value.
Niche Market Positioning: Strategically target consumer groups that appreciate handcrafted and heritage
products - such as luxury buyers, sustainable fashion advocates and cultural connoisseurs - through
tailored marketing initiatives.
Expanding Market Access:
Digital Presence Enhancement: Supporting artisans in building robust online portfolios and utilizing E-
commerce platforms effectively. Training in digital marketing, visual presentation and content creation
can strengthen their reach and sales potential.
Participation in Global Exhibitions: Facilitating regular participation in international craft fairs and
trade shows to connect artisans with global buyers, expand market opportunities and enhance brand
exposure.
Collaborations with Designers and Influencers: Fostering partnerships with fashion designers, brands
and influencers to amplify visibility and promote Banarasi products to newer, diverse consumer segments.
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Supporting Artisan Development:
Skill Transmission Programs: Introducing structured apprenticeship and mentorship initiatives to ensure
the transfer of traditional weaving skills to younger generations while preserving authentic techniques.
Financial and Business Training: Providing artisans with training in financial literacy, costing, business
planning and market understanding to strengthen economic stability and promote sustainable livelihoods.
Cooperative Strengthening: Encouraging the formation and growth of artisan cooperatives to enable
collective resource sharing, improved market access and stronger negotiation power.
Fostering Cultural Awareness:
Educational Outreach: Implementing educational initiatives and interactive workshops in schools and
communities to raise awareness of Banarasi weaving traditions and cultivate appreciation among the
youths.
Craft Document and Archiving: Developing a comprehensive digital and physical archive of weaving
techniques, historical context, and artisan narratives to support preservations and future research.
Building Supportive Infrastructure:
Policy Advocacy: Promoting policy measures that provide long-term support to the handloom sector,
including financial incentives, targeted subsidies and prioritization of handmade products in institutional
procurement.
Establishment of Craft Hubs: Creating dedicated craft centers in Varanasi offering workspace, training
facilities, design support and retail opportunities to empower artisans.
Research & Innovation Support: Encouraging R&D initiatives exploring new materials, contemporary
design interventions and improved techniques to broaden product lines while retaining traditional
authenticity.
CONCLUSION
A detailed analysis of Porters value chain for the Varanasi handloom cluster provided a clear understanding of
its existing processes and highlighted key gaps across both primary and support activities. By comparing
traditional and contemporary value chain models, actionable solutions were identified to strengthen operational
efficiency and enhance market linkages. These proposed interventions, when implemented over time, can
improve coordination across the clusters, foster stronger connections between weavers and customers and
support the long-term sustainability of the craft. Although the cluster remains largely unorganized and
additional gaps persist, a structured adoption of the recommended improvements can help the cluster build
competitive advantage and uplift its overall performance.
Ethical Approval:
This study followed standard ethical guidelines, and informed consent was obtained from all participants
involved in the interviews.
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INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF RESEARCH AND INNOVATION IN APPLIED SCIENCE (IJRIAS)
ISSN No. 2454-6194 | DOI: 10.51584/IJRIAS |Volume X Issue XI November 2025
Page 255
www.rsisinternational.org
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