The indigenous textiles of Odisha represent centuries of cultural memory, identity expression, and ecological

wisdom embedded within the practices of the Kotpad, Dongria Kondh, and Kurukh communities. These

textiles are characterized by distinctive weaving traditions, natural dyeing practices, symbolic motifs, and

exemplify regenerative craft practices and contribute to debates on ethical fashion. A strengthened

methodology, theoretical grounding, and discussion connecting literature with field data provide a

comprehensive narrative. The study concludes by offering pathways for safeguarding cultural heritage while

promoting sustainable livelihoods for indigenous weaving communities.

Kotpad, Dongria Kondh, Kurukh.

communities who have preserved weaving and dyeing traditions over generations. These textiles are not merely

utilitarian objects; they are cultural artefacts through which communities narrate identity, spirituality, social

and ritual significance. However, in the contemporary context, indigenous textiles face mounting pressure from

mass production, synthetic materials, fragmented markets, and declining intergenerational transmission.

Through a comprehensive analysis of cultural significance, historical roots, ecological practices, and

sustainable fashion, design anthropology, and cultural heritage preservation. The study develops a unified

narrative: that reviving and strengthening these textiles is not only an act of craft documentation but a strategic

intervention toward environmental sustainability and cultural resilience.

Although the indigenous textiles of Odisha have immense cultural, ecological, and socio-economic

significance, there exists limited systematic research that connects these dimensions. Current documentation

economic, and ecological debates creates an urgent need for research. This study addresses the gap by

providing a comprehensive analysis grounded in fieldwork, literature, and theoretical frameworks.

The study is guided by the following objectives:

 To document the cultural, symbolic, and ritual significance of Kotpad, Dongria Kondh, and Kurukh

textiles.

 To analyse traditional ecological knowledge and sustainable practices inherent in natural dyeing, fiber

preparation, and community-based production.

 To study socio-economic and livelihood patterns of weaving families and understand challenges faced

by artisans.

According to UNESCO’s framework for intangible cultural heritage, traditional crafts represent dynamic,

textiles, used in rituals, ceremonies, and everyday life, align with this framework as markers of social

continuity. Kotpad textiles used during rites of passage, and Dongria shawls used in matrimonial rituals,

exemplify how textiles maintain cultural identity.

Design anthropology interprets objects as embodiments of cultural logic. Indigenous textiles encode

cosmology, societal values, and environmental relationships through motifs, colors, and techniques. For

instance, Dongria Kondh triangular motifs symbolize mountains and deities, while Kurukh animal motifs

represent a connection to the natural world. This lens allows interpretation of textiles as living cultural scripts.

 Locally sourced fibres

 Community-based production units

 Long product life cycles

These characteristics justify the use of the term “sustainable practice” in describing indigenous textiles.

Research shows that Odisha’s textile culture dates to prehistoric and early historic periods (Deo, 2016). Trade

routes linking ancient Kalinga to Southeast Asia influenced design exchanges and technical innovation

(Mohanty, 2018). Various scholars have examined archaeological remnants suggesting the presence of woven

structures and dyed fabrics in early civilizations in the region.

noted for their distinctive embroidered motifs representing mountains, crops, and cosmological elements.

Nayak (2021) highlights the threats posed by synthetic imitations, market intermediaries, and changing

consumer behaviors. Modernization has disrupted the value chain, leading to reduced incomes and motivation

for younger artisans, especially in remote tribal regions.

indigenous craft communities across India, emphasizing the role of traditional knowledge in ecological

stewardship.

A mixed-methods approach incorporating ethnography, material culture analysis, and socio-economic study

was employed to holistically understand indigenous textile systems.

 Semi-structured interviews with artisans and local leaders

 Participant observation during weaving, dyeing, and festivals

 Archival research at libraries, museums, and craft repositories

 Visual documentation of tools, motifs, processes

 Material analysis of fibres, dyes, patterns,

 Market surveys to understand pricing and distribution challenges

Thematic analysis of interviews for cultural meaning

Comparative analysis of motifs across communities

Socio-economic mapping of livelihood structures

Material analysis of production techniques

Cross-referencing archival and field narratives

remain unstable. Their sustainable production process aligns closely with global definitions of regenerative,

sustainable, and ethical craft.

Image 7.1: Kotpad handloom being woven in Pitloom, At Badamasihgaon village

Source: Self Clicked

Image 7.2 Representation of cultural motifs on the fabric

Source: Self clicked.

While the technical sophistication and symbolic richness of Kotpad textiles illustrate their artistic and cultural

depth, their significance extends far beyond visual aesthetics. These handloom traditions occupy an important

position within the social fabric, ritual practices, and legal recognition frameworks of the region.

merely functional but communicates social identity, marital status, age, and clan affiliation.