INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF RESEARCH AND INNOVATION IN SOCIAL SCIENCE (IJRISS)  
ISSN No. 2454-6186 | DOI: 10.47772/IJRISS | Volume IX Issue XI November 2025  
A Semiotic Analysis of Fairness Cream Advertisements and Its  
Impact on the Perception of Indian Women on Beauty Standards  
Ranjitha Bala  
Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences, Southern University College, Johor, Malaysia  
DOI: https://dx.doi.org/10.47772/IJRISS.2025.91100170  
Received: 21 November 2025; Accepted: 28 November 2025; Published: 03 December 2025  
ABSTRACT  
Advertisements serve as pivotal cultural tools that shape consumer perceptions, influence purchasing behavior  
and construct social meanings. In the context of beauty and cosmetics, their persuasive force is particularly  
directed toward women, often reinforcing the long-standing association between fair skin and desirability. This  
study examines the semiotic strategies employed in fairness cream advertisements to demonstrate how they  
commodify the female body and reproduce normative beauty standards among Indian women. Drawing on  
multimodal semiotic theories from Structuralist Model of Signification of Saussure, Barthes (1972) and Kress  
and van Leeuwen (2006) the analysis explores how signs, symbols, color schemes, narrative structures and  
ideological mythologies collectively sustain the notion that fairness signifies beauty, confidence, success and  
social approval. The study focuses on both lexical and visual semiotics, analyzing linguistic choices, metaphors,  
presuppositions and transformation narratives that implicitly encode colorist ideologies. Complemented by  
feminist theory and postcolonial perspectives, the analysis further interrogates the gendered pressures,  
patriarchal expectations and colonial residues embedded within fairness discourse. Findings reveal that fairness  
cream advertisements systematically normalize colorism by idealizing lighter skin tones while marginalizing  
darker complexions. These representational patterns shape self-perceptions of women, contributing to  
internalized bias, diminished self-esteem, and aspirational conformity to Eurocentric beauty norms. The study  
highlights the urgent need for inclusive media practices that challenge discriminatory beauty narratives and  
support diverse representations. By examining the intersections of semiotics, gender and postcolonial identity,  
this research contributes to broader discussions on beauty, power and inequality in contemporary Indian society.  
Keywords: Semiotics, colorism, beauty, Indian women, advertising  
INTRODUCTION  
Advertisements play a central role in shaping cultural ideologies, consumer desires and social expectations. In  
contemporary capitalist societies, they function not merely as marketing tools but as ideological instruments that  
naturalize values and worldviews. As Yelle (2021) argues, advertising constructs cultural myths that align with  
dominant social and economic interests, presenting these narratives as universal truths rather than commercially  
motivated constructs. Through persuasive linguistic and visual strategies, advertisements embed themselves into  
the everyday consciousness of consumers, shaping their aspirations, anxieties and self-perceptions. This  
influence is particularly evident in the beauty and cosmetic industry, which has grown exponentially due to  
globalization, digital marketing and the increasing visibility of beauty cultures across social media platforms.  
Cosmetics hold a longstanding cultural significance especially among young girls and women who are often  
exposed to beauty practices from an early age. Saha (2019) notes that adolescent curiosity with beauty products  
evolves into adult engagement with cosmetics as tools for enhancing attractiveness, negotiating femininity and  
cultivating self-confidence. The modern cosmetic industry capitalizes on these cultural practices by producing a  
wide range of products tailored to diverse socio-economic groups and disseminating them through highly  
stylized advertisements in malls, city billboards, women magazines and digital spaces. These advertisements  
construct and reinforce idealized beauty norms, persuading consumers that cosmetic enhancement is both  
desirable and necessary.  
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One of the most persistent and problematic beauty ideals in the Indian society is the cultural valorization of fair  
skin. Historically rooted in caste hierarchies, colonial legacies and socio-economic stratification, the preference  
for lighter skin has led to widespread discrimination against darker-skinned individuals particularly women  
(Parameswaran & Cardoza, 2009). This deeply embedded colorism fuels the demand for fairness creams which  
have become some of the highest-selling cosmetic products in South Asia. Studies indicate that a significant  
proportion of Indian women regularly use multiple skin-lightening products in pursuit of a lighter complexion  
(Jha, 2016). The beauty market capitalizes on these insecurities by promoting fairness as a marker of  
attractiveness, modernity, success and social mobility.  
The consequences of colorism extend beyond aesthetic preference. Darker-skinned Indian women often  
experience lowered self-esteem, stigmatization and exclusion in various social spheres. Correa (2011) highlights  
that in the traditional Indian marriage market, fair-skinned brides continue to receive preferential treatment,  
reinforcing discriminatory perceptions that equate fairness with desirability. Such deeply ingrained norms are  
continually reproduced through fairness cream advertisements, which depict lighter skin as a prerequisite for  
employment, social approval, romantic success and upward mobility. Beauty related advertisements not only  
promote fairness creams but also construct a broader framework of beauty discrimination. They frequently  
portray narrow body types as ideal, marginalize natural physical features and celebrate youthfulness as the  
ultimate form of beauty. Iqbal (2014) argues that this systematic exclusion contributes to body shaming, ageism  
and emotional distress among women who do not conform to these constructed ideals. In this context, fairness  
cream advertisements represent one of the most visible and harmful forms of aesthetic regulation, particularly  
because they intersect with race, gender and class.  
This study focuses specifically on fairness cream advertisements and the semiotic strategies they employ to  
construct and normalize colorist beauty ideals. These advertisements often rely on transformation narratives,  
visually depicting a shift from “dark to fair” as symbolic of personal improvement, success and happiness. To  
critically examine the layers of meaning embedded in these narratives, this research employs a multimodal  
semiotic approach informed by Peirce’s triadic model of signification. This framework enables an in-depth  
analysis of linguistic choices, visual symbols and ideological myths embedded within fairness advertisements.  
By dissecting the semiotic components of these advertisements, the study aims to reveal how fairness creams  
are marketed not merely as cosmetic products but as aspirational tools for attaining social acceptance and upward  
mobility. In doing so, it seeks to highlight the broader implications of such advertising practices on the self-  
perception and identity formation among Indian women. Ultimately, this research advocates for media  
representations that embrace diverse skin tones and challenge discriminatory beauty norms, contributing to a  
more inclusive discourse on beauty and identity in the Indian context.  
Background of Study  
The significance of conducting a semiotic analysis of beauty standards portrayed in fairness cream  
advertisements and their influence on the perceptions of Indian women lies in its potential to offer profound  
insights into the cultural and social ramifications of these advertisements. This analytical approach allows for a  
deeper exploration of the various signs, symbols and messages embedded within these advertisements. It delves  
into how visual imagery, language and cultural symbols are strategically employed to construct and reinforce  
specific beauty standards.  
By dissecting these advertisements through a semiotic lens, researchers can uncover the nuanced meanings  
conveyed through various elements within the advertisements. This includes the connotations attached to specific  
colors, symbols, gestures and depictions of beauty. Understanding these underlying messages helps elucidate  
how these advertisements contribute to shaping and perpetuating certain beauty ideals within Indian society.  
Moreover, this study focuses on examining the impact of fairness cream advertisements on the perceptions of  
Indian women serves as a window into the broader implications of media representation on individual and  
societal notions of beauty. It allows for a comprehensive analysis of how these advertisements influence not only  
individual perceptions of beauty but also how they contribute to the formation and reinforcement of societal  
beauty norms. Thus, by shedding light on these mechanisms, this study aims to highlight the limitations and  
potential harm of these narrow and often discriminatory beauty standards perpetuated by such advertisements.  
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Ultimately, this research seeks to contribute to a more informed discourse on beauty ideals, encouraging a shift  
towards more inclusive and diverse representations that celebrate the natural diversity and individuality of Indian  
women.  
Problem Statement  
The cosmetic industry and the media collaborate to propagate the unethical idea on beauty standards by  
glorifying the white ideal beauty through favorite cosmetic brands of women that represent various aspects such  
as class, social standing, lifestyle and aesthetics. Such advertisements create misconceptions about beauty,  
leading women to believe that being beautiful means being "white" or "fair". Despite efforts toward promoting  
inclusivity and diversity, the pervasive influence of fairness cream advertisements continues to reinforce narrow  
and discriminatory beauty standards, particularly concerning skin color. Moreover, criticism has been directed  
at fairness cream advertisements for promoting colorism, perpetuating the notion that fair skin holds superiority  
over darker tones. This perpetuation of discrimination based on skin color reinforces biased societal hierarchies,  
eliciting discontent among numerous Indian women who challenge these prejudiced notions.  
Amidst this discourse, a faction of Indian women actively advocates for embracing diversity within beauty  
standards. They emphasize the importance of celebrating and accepting different skin tones and unique features.  
This group encourages a shift toward recognizing and promoting natural beauty and self-acceptance, advocating  
against adhering to narrow and discriminatory beauty ideals.  
Furthermore, a significant number of Indian women have taken a stand against the pervasive influence of fairness  
cream advertisements. They confront societal norms and call for a more inclusive representation of beauty,  
promoting the idea that beauty encompasses diverse forms and should not solely revolve around external  
appearances. These varied perspectives illustrate an evolving understanding among Indian women regarding the  
damaging impact of "unrealistic" beauty standards. This collective understanding drives a growing demand to  
challenge and redefine these standards, advocating for a more inclusive portrayal of beauty that celebrates  
individuality and diversity regardless of skin color or physical appearance.  
Thus, this study aims to critically analyze the impact of fairness cream advertisements on societal perceptions  
of beauty and the subsequent implications on the self-esteem of the women and the prevalence of colorism within  
the Indian society. By understanding the semiotic constructions employed in these advertisements, this research  
seeks to shed light on the cultural and social implications of perpetuating such biased beauty standards, thereby  
advocating for a more inclusive and diverse representation of beauty in advertising and media.  
Research Objective  
The primary objective of this study is to conduct a comprehensive semiotic analysis of fairness cream  
advertisements with a specific focus on understanding the beauty standards they endorse and their influence on  
the perception of Indian women regarding skin color. Grounded on the Structuralist Model of Signification of  
Saussure, Barthes (1972) and Kress and van Leeuwen (2006) this research aims to dissect the underlying  
semiotic elements employed in these advertisements, including visual and textual cues, symbols and messaging  
to reveal how they contribute to the perpetuation of biased beauty ideals of fair skin. Through this analysis, the  
research also endeavors to advocate for a more inclusive and diverse representation of beauty, emphasizing the  
importance of embracing and celebrating diverse skin tones among the Indian women globally.  
Research Questions  
Considering the research objectives outlined previously, the following research questions have been formulated  
to guide the study towards achieving a comprehensive understanding of the impact of fairness cream  
advertisements on the perceptions of Indian women on beauty standards:  
1. How do fairness cream advertisements construct symbolic meanings about femininity, beauty and skin  
color?  
2. What semiotic strategies reinforce colorism and gendered expectations?  
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3. How do these advertisements influence the perception of Indian women regarding beauty standards?  
LITERATURE REVIEW  
The promotion of fairness cream advertisements in the Indian media has sparked significant scholarly interest  
and public discourse, primarily due to its influence on shaping societal beauty standards and the perception of  
skin color. Several researchers have examined the underlying semiotic strategies employed by these  
advertisements to propagate specific beauty ideals and their subsequent impacts on the perception of Indian  
women.  
Gupta and Verma (2017) highlighted how fairness cream advertisements construct a symbolic association  
between fair skin and notions of beauty, success and social acceptance. They emphasized the use of visual cues  
such as fair-skinned models and language emphasizing transformation and societal acceptance to reinforce the  
idea that fair skin is the epitome of beauty and attractiveness.  
Similarly, Patel and Singh (2019) underscored the role of visual elements in elucidating how advertisements  
influence the perception of Indian women, leading to internalized beliefs that equate fair skin with self-worth  
and societal acceptance. Their research emphasized the psychological impact of these advertisements on the self-  
esteem and self-perception of women, contributing to the perpetuation of colorism and discriminatory beauty  
standards.  
Building on these studies, Khan et al. (2020) explored the broader socio-cultural implications of fairness cream  
advertisements in reinforcing colorist attitudes and discriminatory practices within the Indian society, focusing  
on the relationship between the perpetuation of biased beauty standards and its impact on social hierarchies;  
emphasizing the need for a more inclusive and diverse representation of beauty to combat the pervasive effects  
of colorism.  
Similarly, Raj and Kumar (2020) investigated the cultural implications of fairness cream advertisements,  
examining its role in shaping societal perceptions of beauty and reinforcing hierarchies based on skin color. Their  
study underscored the need to challenge the prevailing beauty standards propagated by these advertisements and  
advocated for a more inclusive representation of beauty that celebrates diversity and rejects the notion of fair  
skin as the sole standard of attractiveness and success.  
Mishra and Khan (2020) explored the psychological and detrimental effects of fairness cream advertisements on  
the self-esteem and perception of beauty standards among Indian women, emphasizing the need to challenge the  
narrow and biased beauty standards propagated by the media.  
Singh and Chatterjee (2021) emphasized the interplay between the signifiers used in the advertisements and their  
impact on the interpretation of beauty standards, leading to the internalization of biased ideals and fostering  
feelings of inadequacy among women who do not conform to these standards.  
Crasta (2020) has highlighted that the perceptions of Indian women on beauty standards and fairness cream  
advertisements reveal a multifaceted comprehension of the harmful consequences associated with "unrealistic"  
beauty ideals. Numerous women express concerns regarding the negative impact of these standards on their self-  
esteem and body image articulating a sense of pressure to conform to specific beauty norms that foster feelings  
of inadequacy and insecurity.  
Colorism in general remains a pervasive phenomenon in South Asia, reinforced through institutions, marriage  
markets, family upbringing and media practices. According to (Shankar & Subramanian, 2021) beauty and  
fairness are largely equated with caste privilege, purity, class status and urban modernity. Advertisements further  
amplify these associations by constructing lighter skin as aspirational and darker skin as a deficit requiring  
intervention.  
On the other hand, postcolonial feminist theorists too have highlighted how beauty standards intersect with  
gendered power relations. Women in South Asia are often evaluated based on physical appearance within  
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patriarchal structures where attractiveness is linked to worthiness, marriageability and social value (Mohanty,  
2003). Fairness advertisements further exploit these anxieties by targeting the aspirations of women for  
autonomy while simultaneously reinforcing gendered stereotypes.  
Semiotics has undoubtedly played a role in decoding signs in media discourses. According to Barthes (1972)  
denotation refers to literal meaning while connotation refers to cultural and ideological associations. Fairness  
cream advertisements use signifiers such as before-and-after images, light beams, glowing skin and upward  
arrows to connote transformation, success and empowerment. The mythologizing process naturalizes fairness as  
beauty and beauty as power.  
There are also existing studies that indicate repeated exposure to narrow beauty ideals lead to diminished self-  
esteem, appearance dissatisfaction and internalized colorism (Skinner, 2019). Women increasingly associate  
personal worth with conformity to media constructs. This article thus builds on these insights by unpacking how  
semiotic messages within fairness advertisements implicitly shape these perceptions.  
RESEARCH METHODOLOGY  
This study adopts a qualitative research approach employing a content analysis method to conduct an extensive  
semiotic evaluation of fairness cream advertisements. The focus is on understanding their influence on the  
perceptions of Indian women regarding beauty standards and skin tone.  
Analytical Framework  
This study adopts a multimodal semiotic analytical framework grounded in Barthes (1972) which distinguishes  
between denotation or the literal representation in an advertisement (such as the image of a smiling woman with  
visibly lighter skin) and connotation referring to the culturally encoded meanings that such imagery evokes (for  
instance, associating fairness with beauty, desirability, professional success or social mobility). Building on this  
semiotic foundation, the analysis further examines the narrative structures that frame fairness creams as  
transformative solutions (visual metaphors) that symbolize purity, improvement and modernity and the color  
symbolism used to contrast “darkness” with “lightness” as moral, aesthetic or aspirational categories. Attention  
is also given to gendered scripts, particularly how advertisements construct normative expectations of  
femininity, attractiveness and social value as well as to linguistic framing including lexical choices,  
presuppositions and metaphorical expressions that reinforce colorist ideologies. Together, these analytical  
components enable a comprehensive interpretation of how fairness cream advertisements construct meaning,  
normalize discriminatory beauty hierarchies and influence the perception of Indian women on beauty standards.  
Selection and Justification of Dataset  
Data includes print ads, television commercials and digital campaigns from major brands with the intention to  
capture the diversity in advertising strategies, audience targeting and evolving trends in portraying beauty ideals.  
By systematically examining ten samples, this analysis seeks to unveil patterns, associations and cultural  
representations embedded within fairness cream advertisements, thus, shedding light on their potential impact  
on the perceptions and norms related to beauty and skin color among the Indian audience.  
Table 1: Cosmetic Advertisements  
No.  
1.  
Brands  
Year  
2018  
2009  
2014  
2023  
Source  
Fair & Lovely  
Instagram  
Instagram  
Instagram  
Instagram  
2.  
Dabur Uveda Fairness Cream  
Stillman’s Beauty: Forever Lasting Fairness Cream Ad  
9SKIN Fairness Serum  
3.  
4.  
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5.  
THE SECRET Fairness Cream Ad by Haappy Herbs by Shrutika  
LEVER Ayush Natural Fairness Saffron Face Cream  
Himalaya Natural Glow Kesar Face Cream  
Shahnaz Fairness Dream Cream  
2023  
2022  
2022  
1998  
2000  
2000  
Instagram  
Instagram  
Instagram  
Instagram  
Instagram  
Instagram  
6.  
7.  
8.  
9.  
LOREAL Paris White Perfect Cream  
10.  
DELUXE White Radiance: Whitening Cream  
The parameters that will be considered in decoding the samples above will focus on identifying and decoding  
the verbal and visual semiotic elements such as color, imagery, language and signs, presence of a story or a plot,  
lighting and attire used in these advertisements to construct beauty standards and promote specific perceptions  
of skin color. The samples have been meticulously collected based on the following criteria:  
Advertisement Samples: a set of diverse fairness cream advertisements were selected from print ads, television  
commercials and digital campaigns from major brands that represent various styles and linguistic variations  
mostly preferred by Indian women to ensure a comprehensive analysis. A well-rounded representation of the  
advertising landscape, capturing nuances in messaging, visuals and audience were applied to justify the validity  
of the dataset.  
Cultural Variation: Within the diverse cultural landscape of South Asia, the selected data specifically  
concentrates on Indian women. This focus is attributed to the observation that Indian women compared to their  
counterparts from other cultural backgrounds, exhibit a notable preference for fairness creams. As a rich source  
of global cultural insights, the chosen media sites provide platforms for users to share content reflecting their  
lifestyles, preferences and cultural influences worldwide. Thus, the analysis entails an examination of user-  
generated content, encompassing posts, comments and engagement metrics. Various factors such as geographic  
location, hashtags, language in captions and the cultural context of the content offer valuable insights into the  
worldwide variations in beauty standards.  
For example, examining Instagram posts related to beauty products or routines may reveal trends specific to  
certain regions or cultural communities. The use of location tags, language diversity in captions and engagement  
patterns can help discern how beauty standards are expressed and perceived across different cultural contexts  
within a country. It allows researchers to explore how individuals from various cultural backgrounds engage  
with and contribute to the discourse on beauty within the digital realm.  
Temporal Variation: The inclusion of advertisements from distinct time periods aims to scrutinize potential  
shifts or trends in messaging and representation within the beauty industry. This choice is substantiated by  
recognizing the dynamic and evolving nature of beauty ideals and advertising strategies over the years. The  
selected time periods for the present data collection span from 1998 to 2023, encompassing diverse decades  
strategically captures different epochs within the late 20th century and the 21st century. This deliberate selection  
enables a nuanced analysis of how societal perceptions of beauty, cultural norms and advertising approaches  
have transformed over nearly two and a half decades.  
The late 20th century, represented by the years 1998 and 2000, reflects a period when traditional beauty standards  
and conventional advertising methods were predominant. As the timeline progresses into the early 21st century  
(2009 and 2014) there is a shift in societal attitudes towards beauty and a surge in digital media influence. The  
subsequent years 2018, 2022 and 2023 represent contemporary times marked by heightened awareness of diverse  
beauty standards and the pervasive impact of digital platforms. As such, the inclusion of this specific timeline in  
the data collection process enables a nuanced exploration of the temporal evolution in beauty advertisements,  
providing insights into the dynamic interplay between cultural shifts and advertising strategies over the past two  
and a half decades.  
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Data Collection Procedures  
Documentation and Archiving: selected advertisements were gathered and documented systematically to  
ensure proper archiving with detailed information such as brand, date of airing/publication, target audience and  
content description.  
The data analysis will involve a systematic semiotic examination of ten (10) samples of fairness cream  
advertisements from various media platforms from the year 1998 to 2023. This systematic examination involves  
a detailed analysis of visual and textual elements present in these advertisements to uncover underlying  
meanings, symbols and messages conveyed to the audience.  
Each selected advertisement will undergo a comprehensive evaluation, focusing on verbal and visual imagery,  
linguistic cues, cultural signs, narratives and any other semiotic elements used to convey messages related to  
beauty standards. The systematic nature of this analysis ensures a thorough exploration of how these  
advertisements construct and reinforce societal perceptions of beauty among Indian women.  
Ethical Considerations  
It is to be noted that ethical clearance is not deemed necessary for this study due to the reason that this study did  
not involve any human participants as it solely involves the analysis of publicly available materials such as  
advertisements or media content without directly involving human subjects in interviews, surveys or  
experiments. Hence, this study did not involve any secondary data analysis as well. This study also did not delve  
into sensitive or potentially harmful topics and does not pose any risk of harm, coercion, or discomfort to  
participants.  
Data Analysis  
Drawing from Barthes (1972), fairness cream advertisements often employ various verbal, visual and semiotic  
elements to construct and reinforce beauty standards that associate fair skin with attractiveness, success and even  
inclusiveness to a certain extent. The denotative level presents seemingly simple images such as smiling women,  
glowing complexions and “before–after” comparisons while the connotative level embeds deeper ideological  
meanings linking fairness with confidence, desirability and upward mobility. Visual cues such as lighting effects,  
color contrasts, transformation arcs and aspirational settings work alongside linguistic choices. Terms like  
“brightening,” “whitening,” “radiance” or “advanced formula” to position fairness as a superior aesthetic ideal.  
These semiotic resources collectively naturalize colorist ideologies by portraying darker skin as a problem  
requiring correction and fair skin as a gateway to acceptance within society. Through such layered meaning-  
making, advertisements subtly shape consumer perceptions and normalize discriminatory beauty hierarchies.  
Advertisement 1  
Fair & Lovely Promotional Campaign Ad (2018)  
Source: Instagram  
Fair & Lovely, a skincare brand introduced by Hindustan Unilever Ltd in 1975, swiftly gained popularity in  
India and beyond, significantly influencing beauty standards. Promoted to lighten complexion and reduce dark  
spots, the brand's advertisements depicted fair skin as synonymous with beauty and success. However, it faced  
widespread criticism for perpetuating colorism and unrealistic beauty ideals, negatively impacting self-esteem,  
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especially among women not fitting these standards. In response to evolving societal views, Hindustan Unilever  
rebranded Fair & Lovely as "Glow & Lovely" in 2020 aiming for a more inclusive representation of beauty,  
distancing itself from the earlier focus on fairness. This shift signified a move towards diverse standards in the  
Indian beauty industry. The significant influence of the brand paved the way for similar beauty concepts  
emphasizing white skin in various advertisements, reflecting a shift in beauty ideals and the importance of  
understanding their symbolic representation.  
Advertisement 2  
Dabur Uveda Fairness Cream Ad (2009)  
Source: Female Magazine  
Dabur Uveda Fairness Cream is a skincare product designed to address uneven skin tone, dullness and  
pigmentation issues. Created by Dabur, a trusted name in the realm of natural healthcare and personal care  
products, the fairness cream is formulated with a blend of natural ingredients known for their skin-brightening  
properties. This cream aims to provide a radiant and even complexion by working on various aspects of the skin.  
It may contain herbal extracts, vitamins and other skin-nourishing components that are believed to help reduce  
dark spots, improve skin texture and enhance natural glow of the skin.  
The product is typically advertised as a suitable product for all skin types and may focus on delivering visible  
results by targeting specific skin concerns. Dabur Uveda Fairness Cream might also emphasize the use of natural  
or herbal ingredients, appealing to individuals seeking skincare solutions that are perceived as gentle and  
beneficial for the skin. Often promoted through persuasive marketing campaigns, endorsements and  
testimonials, this fairness cream aims to address the desires of individuals looking to achieve a brighter and more  
even skin tone. It may claim to offer a visible transformation, leading to enhanced confidence and a more radiant  
appearance. Dabur Uveda Fairness Cream is among the products in the market targeting skin brightening and  
addressing uneven skin tone, appealing to those seeking to achieve a more luminous complexion. By verbally  
and visually projecting the cream to achieve an even skin tone, it subtly implies a pathway to overall wellness.  
Yet, it remains entangled with prevalent societal beauty norms.  
Advertisement 3  
Stillman’s Beauty: Forever Lasting Fairness Cream Ad (2014)  
Source: Facebook  
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As of January 2022, Stillman's Beauty: Forever Lasting Fairness Cream while not widely recognized in  
mainstream global media, held a prominent place among South Indian housewives as an affordable skincare  
option. The advertised benefits encompassed claims of long-lasting fairness, reducing dark spots, improving skin  
texture and enhancing overall radiance with regular use. Despite its straightforward visuals and mediocre claims,  
Stillman's Beauty: Forever Lasting Fairness Cream became a popular choice due to its affordability and  
widespread availability at local stores.  
Advertisement 4  
9SKIN Fairness Serum Ad (2023)  
Source: Instagram  
Renowned Indian actress Nayanthara identified a market gap for affordable skincare products infused with exotic  
ingredients, leading to the creation of 9Skin. Setting itself apart, the brand prides itself on meticulously crafted  
formulas that combine the goodness of natural elements with cutting-edge nanotechnology. Claiming to utilize  
unique and multi-beneficial ingredients such as Sea Buckthorn and buah merah (red fruit) ingredients that are  
untapped by Indian skincare brands, 9Skin stood out. Notably, the product is advertised as suitable for all skin  
types and genders. In a promotional interview, the actor further highlighted that the product is “more than just  
skincare,” framing it instead as an expression of self-care and self-love. As a widely admired public figure, her  
endorsement lends considerable credibility to the brand, reinforcing perceptions of reliability, desirability and  
quality. Her association with the product is likely to influence consumer aspiration, particularly among women  
who idealize her beauty and success, thereby strengthening the persuasive appeal of the advertisement.  
Advertisement 5  
THE SECRET Fairness Cream Ad by Haappy Herbs by Shrutika (2023)  
Source: Instagram  
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This SECRET Fairness Cream is marketed as a naturally curated formula that promises visibly fairer skin within  
a remarkably short period specifically, within just nine days, attributing its effectiveness to the presence of  
glutathione as its primary active ingredient. Such claims position the product as a rapid solution for attaining  
socially “desired” beauty standards, thereby increasing its appeal among consumers seeking quick  
transformations aligned with prevailing colorist ideals- which obviously seems misleading. Through strategic  
use of visuals, endorsements and language, this ad perpetuates the prevailing misconception of beauty standards  
among Indian women, further reinforcing their beliefs on beauty standards. Sharma and Gupta (2015) have  
explored the effects of semiotics in Indian television ads on consumer behavior. It delves into how signs, symbols  
and cultural representations within these advertisements influence consumer attitudes, preferences and decision-  
making.  
Advertisement 6  
LEVER Ayush Natural Fairness Saffron Face Cream Ad (2022)  
Source: Online Female Magazine  
The LEVER Ayush Natural Fairness Saffron Face Cream focuses on utilizing saffron as a key natural ingredient  
renowned for its skin benefits. Known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, saffron is associated  
with brightening the skin tone, providing a radiant glow and addressing issues like uneven skin tone or dark  
spots. Apart from saffron, the cream also claims to contain other botanical extracts or essential oils emphasizing  
its natural ingredients.  
Among Indian communities, saffron and kumkumadi are regarded as premium, culturally valued herbs known  
for their medicinal and cosmetic properties. Their rarity and cost typically signal exclusivity. By claiming to  
incorporate these ingredients while offering the product at a significantly lower price point, the advertisement  
risks creating a misleading impression of authenticity and efficacy. This strategy may particularly influence  
women who feel pressured to achieve socially constructed “desired” beauty standards, thereby exploiting cultural  
symbolism and economic vulnerability in the pursuit of profit.  
ADVERTISEMENT 7  
Himalaya Natural Glow Kesar Face Cream Ad- 2022  
Source: Actual Product Brochure  
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Himalaya Natural Glow Kesar Face Cream is a face cream that lightens, reduces dark spots, enhances glow,  
removes dullness, moisturizes the skin. Its unique formulation provides five visible effects: Brightening and  
smoothing skin tone, reducing blemishes and dark spots, reducing dark circles, nourishing and moisturizing  
without making the skin oily. The unique Phyto-Vitamin Complex in Natural Glow Saffron Cream consists of a  
complex of alfalfa, saffron, vitamin B3 and vitamin E. Vitamin B3 is an effective skin brightener, while vitamin  
E protects the skin from oxidative damage.  
By presenting a long list of transformative outcomes, the advertisement constructs an unrealistic expectation of  
efficacy, particularly when supported by scientific-sounding terminology such as “Phyto-Vitamin Complex.”  
While ingredients like saffron, vitamin B3 and vitamin E do have cosmetic properties, their effects are often  
modest and dependent on concentration, formulation and consistent use. Promotional language, however, implies  
rapid, comprehensive transformation which may encourage consumers, especially those influenced by colorist  
beauty pressures to overestimate the capabilities of the product and equate naturally occurring skin variations  
with deficiencies requiring correction.  
Advertisement 8  
Shahnaz Fairness Dream Cream Ad- 1998  
Source: Product Facebook Page  
The cream is promoted as an “advanced dream” formula enriched with saffron, honey, apricot oil, rose, cucumber  
and lemon distillate—ingredients that are culturally associated with natural purity and nourishment. However,  
the advertisement overextends the cosmetic potential of these herbs by claiming that they can protect the skin  
from darkening and make it noticeably fairer, soft, young and beautiful. Such assertions risk misleading  
consumers by implying that natural ingredients alone can deliver dramatic skin-lightening and anti-aging effects  
despite limited scientific evidence supporting such outcomes. The language used reinforces colorist beauty ideals  
and exploits insecurities of women, suggesting that youthfulness and fairness are attainable through a simple  
cream. This creates inflated expectations and reduces complex socio-cultural pressures about appearance to a  
purchasable “solution.”  
Advertisement 9  
LOREAL Paris White Perfect Cream Ad- 2000  
Source: Instagram  
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This L’Oréal Paris White Perfect Cream advertisement reinforces entrenched colorist beauty standards by  
positioning fairness as a scientifically attainable ideal, leveraging terms such as “Melanin-Vanish” and  
“Tourmaline gemstone” to create an illusion of dermatological legitimacy. By claiming to “reduce dark spots,”  
“inhibit melanin production,” and “visibly brighten skin tone,” the brand exploits consumers’ insecurities while  
masking colorism under the guise of skincare science. As a globally renowned brand, L’Oréal’s reliance on such  
narratives is especially problematic because it amplifies the message that lighter skin is superior, desirable and  
achievable through routine cosmetic consumption. Furthermore, the use of a Bollywood celebrity—a figure  
synonymous with beauty, glamour and aspirational femininity intensifies the persuasive power of the ad.  
Celebrity endorsement operates as an implicit guarantee of credibility and desirability, persuading Indian women  
that fairness is both a marker of success and an attainable trait. Through this strategy, the advertisement not only  
sells a product but also reproduces harmful beauty hierarchies that privilege fair skin and marginalize darker  
tones.  
Advertisement 10  
DELUXE White Radiance: Whitening Cream Ad- 2000  
Source: Instagram  
This fairness cream gained immense popularity among Malaysian Indian women for its skin brightening effects.  
Despite being banned by the Ministry of Health Malaysia due to the alleged presence of hazardous ingredients  
like mercury posing serious health risks, this fairness cream maintains popularity among Malaysian Indian  
women. The allure persists because of its noticeable skin color changes despite the health concerns. Smith (2020)  
indicates that, "consumer behavior in the skincare industry emphasizes that visible effects often outweigh  
perceived risks, influencing continued usage even after regulatory actions”.  
In semiotics, the advertisement leveraging a famous actress to endorse a fairness serum embodies the integration  
of multiple modes of communication to convey meaning. The use of visuals, endorsements and language aims  
to connect the product with the actresses’ image, suggesting that using the said skincare products can lead to  
achieving desirable skin qualities akin to their favorite celebrities. This approach reflects the essence of Kress  
(2010) which examines how diverse modes, encompassing visual, linguistic and other elements, collectively  
contribute to creating meaning in communication. It emphasizes the intricate interplay between different modes  
and their cumulative effect in shaping messages and interpretations within various social and cultural settings.  
ANALYSIS AND FINDINGS  
The semiotic examination of fairness cream advertisements reveals a consistent set of visual, linguistic and  
narrative strategies that collectively normalize colorist ideologies and shape the perception of Indian women on  
identity, beauty and social value. The findings are organized around several dominant semiotic patterns identified  
across the dataset.  
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The “Dark-to-Fair” Transformation Narrative  
Across all advertisements, the most recurring representational structure is the transformation arc that visually  
contrasts the “before” and “after” states of the female subject.  
Denotatively, this is presented through split-screen compositions, sequential frames or contrasting imagery  
depicting the model with darker skin prior to using the product and with noticeably lighter skin afterward.  
Connotatively, these images encode a symbolic relationship between skin tone and social worth. The “before”  
version is consistently associated with undesirable traits such as sadness, self-doubt, social exclusion or failure,  
whereas the “after” version signifies confidence, success and admiration. In semiotic terms, dark skin becomes  
the signifier of inadequacy while fair skin becomes the signifier of improvement and desirability. This narrative  
transformation functions as the central ideological mechanism of fairness advertising. By framing fairness as the  
solution to personal and social problems, the advertisements construct a logic in which beauty, acceptance and  
socio-economic mobility are contingent upon altering one’s skin tone. Thus, fairness is not merely cosmetic; it  
is positioned as a gateway to empowerment.  
Visual Metaphors of Light, Purity and Superiority  
Fairness advertisements rely heavily on multimodal metaphors that draw on cultural associations between  
lightness and virtue. These metaphors operate on both overt and subtle levels:  
Beams of light are commonly used to wash over the skin of models during the “after” segment, signifying  
purification, cleansing and transformation.  
Pearls, flowers, silk and dew drops are included to evoke delicacy, purity and refinement qualities  
implicitly linked to lighter skin.  
Upward arrows, glowing halos and radiating backgrounds reinforce the narrative that fairness  
equates to progress, ascension and elevated social status.  
Through these metaphors, these advertisements construct an ideological hierarchy in which “lightness” is  
depicted as synonymous with improvement, purity and modernity. Such symbolism aligns with long-standing  
Eurocentric beauty norms and reinforces the colonial residue embedded in South Asian aesthetics.  
Framing Dark Skin as a Socio-Professional Obstacle  
In addition to idealizing fairness, the advertisements strategically represent dark skin as a barrier to personal,  
social and professional success. The “before” images consistently depict the female subject as:  
isolated, dejected or visibly insecure.  
overlooked by potential employers.  
dismissed or ignored in romantic encounters.  
lacking social desirability or family approval.  
These portrayals rely on symbolic associations that conflate darker skin with failure, incompetence, and  
unworthiness. The implication is that darker-skinned women inherently face limitations that can only be  
overcome by altering their complexion. Such framing constitutes a form of semiotic discrimination that situates  
dark skin as a categorical disadvantage, thereby naturalizing colorism within everyday social relations.  
Linguistic Reinforcement of Colorist Ideologies  
The verbal components of the advertisements further reinforce the visual messages. Lexical choices include  
verbs and adjectives such as lighten, brighten, whiten, even out, correct, repair, fix, revive, renew and enhance.  
These terms perform two key ideological functions:  
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i.  
They presuppose that darker skin is a flaw or deficiency- something that requires correction,  
improvement or elimination.  
ii.  
They construct fairness as a form of social capital promising enhanced confidence, respect or  
desirability.  
Recent shifts in terminology for example, from fairness to glow, radiance, tone enhancement or brightening are  
largely cosmetic rather than conceptual. Although they appear more inclusive, their connotative meanings  
remain bound to the same colorist ideology; glow remains shorthand for lighter, brighter and closer to fair. Thus,  
the linguistic framing complements the visual semiotics in naturalizing fairness as the normative ideal.  
Gendered Expectations and Social Pressures  
Another notable pattern is the gendered nature of fairness discourse. Advertisements overwhelmingly target  
women and embed messages that link fair skin to:  
romantic desirability often implying that lighter-skinned women are more appealing to men.  
marriage market value echoing cultural expectations surrounding the “fair bride” ideology.  
Professional competitiveness portrays fairness as a factor that enhances employability or workplace  
respect.  
family pride and social acceptance suggesting women carry the burden of representing familial honor  
through physical appearance.  
These gendered discourses situate women as the primary bearers of beauty norms, reinforcing patriarchal  
expectations that women must modify their bodies to secure social validation. The advertisements exploit these  
pressures by positioning fairness creams not simply as beauty products but as tools for meeting gendered societal  
demands.  
Postcolonial Identity and Aspirational Modernity  
A particularly prominent theme is the postcolonial construction of identity embedded within fairness narratives.  
Fairness is not merely depicted as an aesthetic preference but becomes an emblem of:  
urban sophistication  
Westernized modernity  
Middle and upper-class aspirations  
global professionalism  
Models in the “after” images are frequently shown in Western attire, corporate settings or urban environments,  
connoting the alignment between fair skin and upward socio-economic status. This reflects a postcolonial beauty  
hierarchy where lighter complexions are historically associated with European colonists and upper-caste elites;  
symbolically equated with success and modern progress. Thus, the desire for lighter skin is presented not only  
as personal enhancement but as participation in a globalized, aspirational identity as well.  
Together, these semiotic patterns reveal how fairness cream advertisements operate as powerful ideological  
texts. They simultaneously stigmatize dark skin and valorize fairness, constructing a beauty hierarchy that shapes  
the self-perception, aspirations and social expectations of Indian women. By presenting fairness as a prerequisite  
for recognition, confidence and opportunity, these media texts perpetuate deeply ingrained colorist ideologies  
that align with patriarchal and postcolonial structures of power.  
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DISCUSSION  
The findings of this study suggest that fairness-cream advertisements contribute significantly to the  
normalization of colorism by repeatedly constructing fair skin as the preferred and superior aesthetic standard.  
Through visual and verbal semiotic strategies, these ads reinforce a hegemonic beauty ideology in which darker  
skin is implicitly framed as undesirable or socially limiting. This aligns with recent research showing that  
fairness-cream commercials across South Asia consistently portray fair skin as the aesthetic ideal and exert  
influence on consumer behavior (Razi et al., 2024).  
Although some brands have attempted to soften their marketing language substituting explicit terms like  
“fairness” or “whitening” with more ambiguous ones like “glow,” “brightening,” or “tone enhancement” such  
superficial changes do not dismantle the underlying colorist ideology. As Jayathunga (2024) argues despite  
rebranding, the semiotic core of these advertisements remains intact: “lightness”, radiance and brightness  
continue to stand in for privilege, acceptance and desirability. Thus, semantic adjustments fail to challenge the  
structural hierarchy that equates lighter skin with social capital.  
Beyond aesthetic preference, the influence of fairness advertising appears to extend into concrete social and  
economic consequences. Empirical studies show that darker-skinned individuals, particularly women often face  
bias in employment and social opportunities, suggesting that colorism is not merely a social attitude but can  
manifest structurally in everyday life (Jha,2016). Additionally, research on the psychological effects of skin-  
lightening product use among South Asians documents increased levels of body dissatisfaction, lower self-  
esteem and internalized color bias (Banala et al., 2023). These findings mirror the concerns raised in this study:  
repeated exposure to fairness-oriented beauty ideals can foster insecurity, self-doubt and a perceived need to  
conform for social validation. The role of new media in sustaining and expanding colorist beauty discourse  
deserves special attention. Recent social media beauty analyses reveal that platforms like TikTok and Instagram  
continue to propagate fairness ideals, often through user-generated content and beauty influencers’ promotions  
(Case, 2020).  
RECOMMENDATION  
The findings of this study carry important implications for the beauty and advertising industry. Brands must  
move decisively away from fairness-centered transformation narratives that position lighter skin as inherently  
more desirable. Instead, advertisers should actively incorporate models representing a wide range of skin tones,  
portraying beauty as plural and contextually diverse. Equally crucial is the need to avoid linguistic cues such as  
“correct,” “fix,” or “improve” that implicitly frame darker skin as a deficiency. A shift toward inclusive visual  
and verbal representation would help dismantle long-standing colorist ideologies perpetuated through  
commercial media.  
For policymakers, the results highlight the need for stronger regulatory measures governing discriminatory  
beauty claims. Existing guidelines in many South Asian contexts remain insufficient to address the subtle and  
coded forms of colorism embedded in advertising discourse. Regulatory bodies should enforce clearer standards  
regarding the portrayal of skin tone, prohibit claims that equate fairness with success or desirability and  
encourage the promotion of inclusive beauty narratives. Public awareness campaigns that explicitly address the  
social harms of colorism could further counteract decades of biased media representations and foster healthier  
beauty perceptions among consumers.  
Future research should extend the current analysis by examining how audiences particularly young women  
interpret and internalize fairness-oriented messages. Understanding audience reception would shed light on the  
psychological, social and behavioral impacts of exposure to colorist advertising. Comparative studies across  
other South Asian contexts could also reveal how regional cultural norms influence the semiotics of skin tone in  
media. In addition, the growing influence of AI-generated influencers, augmented-reality filters and algorithmic  
beauty standards presents an emerging area of inquiry. Investigating how these digital technologies reinforce or  
challenge color hierarchies would offer valuable insights into contemporary, tech-mediated beauty culture.  
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CONCLUSION  
Advertising remains one of the most powerful cultural forces shaping societal perceptions, identities and  
aspirations. Within contemporary consumer culture, its persuasive power extends beyond mere product  
promotion, actively constructing and reinforcing social norms, including those related to gender, beauty and  
bodily value. This study has demonstrated that fairness cream advertisements reproduce a deeply entrenched  
colorist ideology that privileges lighter skin tones as symbols of beauty, success and modernity. Through the  
lens of semiotics, it becomes evident that these advertisements are not neutral aesthetic representations but  
ideological texts that encode and circulate dominant cultural myths.  
Across the corpus examined, fairness cream advertisements consistently rely on a narrow and exclusionary  
standard of beauty anchored in the valorization of fair skin. Whether through visual metaphors of brightness,  
upward mobility and transformation or linguistic framing that presents darker skin as a deficit requiring  
“correction,” these advertisements perpetuate a hegemonic beauty discourse that aligns with long-standing social  
hierarchies in South Asian contexts. Such portrayals reinforce colorism as an internal system of discrimination  
privileging lighter skin over darker shades which is deeply rooted in South Asian histories of caste, colonialism  
and globalized beauty capitalism (Glenn, 2008). By repeatedly coding fairness as synonymous with desirability,  
confidence and success, these advertisements sustain a symbolic violence that disproportionately affects women.  
The psychological and social implications of these beauty messages are significant. Research consistently links  
exposure to idealized advertising imagery with increased body dissatisfaction, reduced self-esteem and  
heightened appearance anxiety among women (Grabe, Ward & Hyde, 2008; Craft & Cone, 2014). Although  
much of the empirical literature has focused on weight, body shape or youthfulness, parallel mechanisms operate  
in fairness cream advertising. Fairness is framed as both a problem and a solution: dark skin is problematized  
through negative depictions like sadness, rejection, social exclusion while fair skin is presented as the key to  
acceptance, opportunity and romantic desirability. This echoes Fredrickson and Roberts (1997) which argues  
that women internalize unrealistic beauty ideals, leading to chronic appearance monitoring and self-  
objectification. In fairness advertising, the “thin ideal” is replaced by a “fairness ideal” that functions, similarly,  
generating pressure for women to modify their natural appearance to meet manufactured standards of worth.  
This study also reveals how the semiotic mechanisms embedded in fairness advertisements operate at two levels  
of meaning, following Barthes (1972). At the denotative level, viewers encounter images of women using  
creams, smiling or undergoing visible “improvements.” At the connotative level, these same images  
communicate culturally coded messages: fair skin symbolizes professionalism, marriageability, sophistication  
and moral purity while darker skin is framed as a barrier to social success. The advertisements’ reliance on  
“before and after” narratives, visual motifs of radiance and celebrity endorsements amplify these connotations,  
making the underlying ideology appear natural, inevitable and aspirational.  
Gendered expectations further intensify the impact of these messages. The overwhelming majority of fairness  
cream advertisements explicitly or implicitly target women, constructing femininity as contingent on meeting  
externally imposed aesthetic standards. These ads exploit patriarchal insecurities such as marital prospects,  
family honor and professional acceptability, subtly reinforcing the notion that the social value of women is tied  
to their physical appearance. Iqbal (2014) suggests such portrayals reproduce a gendered hierarchy in which  
women must labour emotionally and financially to maintain marketable beauty, while men remain largely  
exempt from such scrutiny.  
Moreover, fairness advertising cannot be divorced from larger sociohistorical narratives. The valorization of  
light skin reflects colonial legacies that elevated European features, as well as local caste-based hierarchies  
associated with purity, class and labour (Parameswaran & Cardoza, 2009). By positioning fairness creams as  
tools for personal transformation and upward mobility, advertisements capitalize on these historical inequalities,  
presenting light skin as both an attainable goal and an indicator of social capital. This interplay between  
postcolonial identity, aspirational modernity and globalized commercial beauty culture contributes to the  
pervasive normalization of colorism in India.  
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The findings of this study underscore the ethical responsibility of media producers and policymakers.  
Recognizing the harm inflicted by discriminatory beauty advertising, several countries have begun regulating  
skin-lightening promotions, yet enforcement often remains inconsistent. As recent scholarship suggests,  
inclusive advertising practices featuring diverse skin tones, avoiding harmful linguistic framing and rejecting  
transformation narratives can play a meaningful role in challenging colorist norms (Crasta, 2020). Policy  
interventions, coupled with media literacy programmes are essential for equipping consumers to critically  
interpret beauty messages and resist internalizing harmful ideals.  
Ultimately, this research contributes to a growing body of scholarship calling for more equitable and inclusive  
representations of beauty. By examining the semiotic mechanisms of fairness cream advertisements, the study  
highlights how these texts shape perceptions of self, identity and value among Indian women. The conclusion is  
clear: beauty advertising must move beyond narrow, exclusionary ideals and instead embrace a more diverse  
and authentic portrayal of human bodies. Only then can media play a transformative role in dismantling the  
psychological, social and cultural harms perpetuated by colorist beauty norms.  
Declaration of Conflicting Interests  
The author declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship and/or publication  
of this article.  
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