Fading Impressions: Documentation of Tribal Printed Textiles of
Tarapur and Umdephur, West Madhya Pradesh, India
Dr Anjali Karolia1, Arooshi Mogha2
1Retd Prof, Former Head & Dean, Department of Clothing & Textiles, Faculty of Family & Community
Sciences, The Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda, India.
2Research Scholar and Empanelled Designer, DC handicraft. Department of Clothing & Textiles,
Faculty of Family & Community Sciences, The Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda, India
Received: 20 November 2025; Accepted: 30 November 2025; Published: 05 November 2025
INTRODUCTION
India’s traditional textiles embody a profound synthesis of cultural diversity, regional practices, and artisanal
knowledge. Throughout the centuries, the country has nurtured a remarkable legacy of handicrafts produced
entirely by hand, including hand-block-printed textiles, blue pottery, gemstone carving, jewellery, sculpture,
screen printing, and woodcrafts. Among these, hand block printing is one of the most distinctive textile traditions,
practised across India but most prominently preserved in regions that continue to use hereditary techniques. The
desert belt of north-western India—comprising Jaipur, Pali, Chittorgarh,
Mandsaur, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Akola, Jawad, Barmer, Sanganer, and Bagru in Rajasthan are celebrated as centres
of vibrant dyed and printed textiles.
Madhya Pradesh, historically referred to as the “heart of India,” is equally significant in the history of hand
printing. Until the creation of Chhattisgarh in 2000, it was the country’s largest state and is renowned for its
architectural and cultural heritage, encompassing sites such as Khajuraho, Mandu, Ujjain, and Gwalior.
Alongside its monuments representing Hindu, Islamic, and Buddhist traditions, Madhya Pradesh is also
distinguished by its handicrafts, each bearing the state’s distinct cultural identity.
The Malwa region of western Madhya Pradesh, once a flourishing centre of cotton printing, has gradually
declined and is now almost forgotten in mainstream accounts of Indian textiles. Techniques such as direct dyeing,
resist printing, and discharge methods were widely practised in this region. Jawad gained international
recognition for exporting the renowned Jazams. Today, only a few villages—most notably Tarapur and
Umdephur in Neemuch district, continue to preserve this legacy of block printing. Historically under princely
rule, these settlements gained a reputation for their expertise in textile production. Geographical advantages,
such as proximity to the Gambhiri River, moderate climate, and extensive open plains for fabric drying,
contributed to the growth and prosperity of the craft. For generations, dyeing and printing remained the primary
occupations of the local population.
Among the most enduring traditions of this region are the Nandana and Jawariya Dana prints, practised for nearly
600 years. Produced by the Chhipa community, these textiles were traditionally worn by tribal groups as odhni,
lugda, ghaghra, pagdi, safa, and angochi. Their motifs, colours, and techniques symbolised the cultural identity
and social life of the tribal populations of the Nimar region. Once a standard part of tribal attire, the craft has
now dwindled to a few families in Tarapur, Umdephur, and Athana near Jawad.
In recent years, artisans have adapted to changing markets by introducing variations in raw materials and
expanding their production to include saris, bed covers, and other textiles. These innovations have given the craft
some renewed visibility. However, the practice continues to face serious challenges, including a lack of
recognition, declining numbers of skilled practitioners, and competition from faster, mechanised printing
techniques. Research on Indian printed textiles has mostly focused on well-known centres like Ajrakh, Bagru,
Sanganer, and Rajasthan’s traditional prints. In comparison, very little published work is available on the printing
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