The Political Economy of Mitumbaism and Its Implications for Kenya’s Economic Development
Authors
Department of Social Sciences, Tom Mboya University, Homa Bay (Kenya)
Article Information
DOI: 10.51244/IJRSI.2026.1307000123
Subject Category: Political Science
Volume/Issue: 13/7 | Page No: 1682-1695
Publication Timeline
Submitted: 2026-07-20
Accepted: 2026-07-26
Published: 2026-07-31
Abstract
Mitumbaism – the importation, distribution, consumption, repair and recirculation of second-hand goods – occupies a contested position in Kenya’s development. It expands access to affordable goods, sustains informal-market activity and prolongs product life, yet can reinforce import dependence, intensify competition for domestic producers and transfer end-of-life waste costs to Kenyan communities. This article develops a multi-level political-economy framework to explain this tension. It uses an integrative review and documentary analysis of peer-reviewed scholarship, Kenyan and East African policy documents, trade records and institutional reports, with second-hand clothing as the principal empirical case. Kenya imported approximately 197.8 million kilograms of worn clothing valued at US$187.3 million in 2023, confirming a market of substantial scale, although estimates of employment, household-income contribution and unusable waste remain contested. The analysis shows that realism and critical international political economy explain external constraints and asymmetric bargaining; welfare, institutional and industrial economics explain simultaneous consumer gains and productive-sector pressures; and behavioural economics and cultural consumption explain persistent demand through affordability, perceived durability, habit, risk and identity. These levels interact as trade rules and state capacity shape prices, market organisation shapes quality and information, and consumer and trader interests feed back into policy. The article recommends sequenced reform rather than prohibition: verified data, risk-based standards, conditional industrial support, beneficial trader formalisation, circular infrastructure, competitive local production and coordinated East African action. Its contribution is an integrated transition framework that reconciles immediate welfare with long-term productive and environmental objectives.
Keywords
Mitumbaism; second-hand clothing; political economy; behavioural economics
Downloads
References
1. Akerlof, G. A. (1970). The market for “lemons”: Quality uncertainty and the market mechanism. The Quarterly Journal of Economics, 84(3), 488–500. https://doi.org/10.2307/1879431 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
2. Amin, S. (1976). Unequal development: An essay on the social formations of peripheral capitalism. Monthly Review Press. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
3. Bonnet, F., Vanek, J., & Chen, M. A. (2019). Women and men in the informal economy: A statistical brief. Women in Informal Employment: Globalizing and Organizing. https://www.wiego.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/Women%20and%20Men%20in%20the%20Informal%20Economy%20-%20A%20Statistical%20Brief%20-%20for%20web.pdf [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
4. Bourdieu, P. (1984). Distinction: A social critique of the judgement of taste (R. Nice, Trans.). Harvard University Press. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
5. Bowen, G. A. (2009). Document analysis as a qualitative research method. Qualitative Research Journal, 9(2), 27–40. https://doi.org/10.3316/QRJ0902027 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
6. Brooks, A. (2013). Stretching global production networks: The international second-hand clothing trade. Geoforum, 44, 10–22. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geoforum.2012.06.004 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
7. Brooks, A. (2015). Clothing poverty: The hidden world of fast fashion and second-hand clothes. Zed Books. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
8. Brooks, A., & Simon, D. (2012). Unravelling the relationships between used-clothing imports and the decline of African clothing industries. Development and Change, 43(6), 1265–1290. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-7660.2012.01797.x [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
9. Chen, M. A. (2012). The informal economy: Definitions, theories and policies (WIEGO Working Paper No. 1). Women in Informal Employment: Globalizing and Organizing. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
10. Cox, R. W. (1981). Social forces, states and world orders: Beyond international relations theory. Millennium: Journal of International Studies, 10(2), 126–155. https://doi.org/10.1177/03058298810100020501 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
11. East African Community. (2020). The East African Community leather and leather products strategy and implementation roadmap 2020–2030. https://www.eac.int/documents/category/leather-and-leather-products [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
12. East African Community. (2022). EAC regulations for compiling harmonised consumer price indices (HCPI). https://www.eac.int/documents?controller=download&file=96589cc7-2c84-43e0-ba16-bf293f73781a&name=EAC+_+REGULATIONS_+FOR+COMPILING+HARMONISED+CONSUMER+PRICE+INDICES+MARCH_+2022+-+web.pdf&task=download.file [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
13. Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (2017). A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future. https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/a-new-textiles-economy [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
14. Frazer, G. (2008). Used-clothing donations and apparel production in Africa. The Economic Journal, 118(532), 1764–1784. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-0297.2008.02190.x [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
15. Gereffi, G., & Frederick, S. (2010). The global apparel value chain, trade and the crisis: Challenges and opportunities for developing countries (Policy Research Working Paper No. 5281). World Bank. https://documents.worldbank.org/en/publication/documents-reports/documentdetail/100641468339015732 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
16. Hansen, K. T. (2000). Salaula: The world of secondhand clothing and Zambia. University of Chicago Press. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
17. Hansen, K. T. (2004). Helping or hindering? Controversies around the international second-hand clothing trade. Anthropology Today, 20(4), 3–9. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0268-540X.2004.00280.x [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
18. Herod, A., Pickren, G., Rainnie, A., & McGrath-Champ, S. (2014). Global destruction networks, labour and waste. Journal of Economic Geography, 14(2), 421–441. https://doi.org/10.1093/jeg/lbt015 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
19. International Labour Organization. (2015). Transition from the Informal to the Formal Economy Recommendation, 2015 (No. 204). https://www.ilo.org/resource/r204-transition-informal-formal-economy-recommendation-2015 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
20. International Labour Organization. (2018). Women and men in the informal economy: A statistical picture (3rd ed.). https://www.ilo.org/publications/women-and-men-informal-economy-statistical-picture-third-edition [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
21. Kahneman, D., & Tversky, A. (1979). Prospect theory: An analysis of decision under risk. Econometrica, 47(2), 263–291. https://doi.org/10.2307/1914185 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
22. Kenya National Bureau of Statistics. (2018). Basic report on well-being in Kenya: Based on the 2015/16 Kenya Integrated Household Budget Survey. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
23. Kenya National Bureau of Statistics. (2025). Economic survey 2025. https://www.knbs.or.ke/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/2025-Economic-Survey.pdf [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
24. Kenya National Bureau of Statistics. (2026). Economic survey 2026. https://www.knbs.or.ke/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/2026-Economic-Survey.pdf [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
25. Lall, S. (1992). Technological capabilities and industrialization. World Development, 20(2), 165–186. https://doi.org/10.1016/0305-750X(92)90097-F [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
26. McCormick, D., Kimuyu, P., & Kinyanjui, M. N. (2001). Kenya’s garment industry: An institutional view of medium and large firms (Working Paper No. 531). Institute for Development Studies, University of Nairobi. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
27. Mhango, M. W., & Niehm, L. S. (2005). The second-hand clothing distribution channel: Opportunities for retail entrepreneurs in Malawi. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 9(3), 342–356. https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020510610462 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
28. Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya. (2023). The state of second-hand clothes and footwear trade in Kenya. https://mitumbaassociation.org/ [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
29. Morgenthau, H. J. (1948). Politics among nations: The struggle for power and peace. Alfred A. Knopf. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
30. Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T., & Gwilt, A. (2020). The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews Earth & Environment, 1, 189–200. https://doi.org/10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
31. Office of the United States Trade Representative. (2018a, July 30). President Donald J. Trump upholds AGOA trade preference eligibility for Rwanda but suspends apparel benefits. https://ustr.gov/about-us/policy-offices/press-office/press-releases/2018/july/president-donald-j-trump-upholds-agoa [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
32. Office of the United States Trade Representative. (2018b, March 29). President Trump determines trade preference program eligibility for Rwanda, Tanzania, and Uganda. https://ustr.gov/about-us/policy-offices/press-office/fact-sheets/2018/march/title [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
33. Office of the United States Trade Representative. (2024). 2024 biennial report on the implementation of the African Growth and Opportunity Act. https://ustr.gov/sites/default/files/2024%20AGOA%20Biennial%20Report%206-27-2024%20PDF.pdf [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
34. Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development. (2016). Extended producer responsibility: Updated guidance for efficient waste management. OECD Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1787/9789264256385-en [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
35. Polanyi, K. (1944). The great transformation: The political and economic origins of our time. Farrar & Rinehart. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
36. Republic of Kenya. (2022). Sustainable Waste Management Act (No. 31 of 2022). Kenya Law. https://new.kenyalaw.org/akn/ke/act/2022/31/eng@2022-12-31 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
37. Republic of Kenya. (2024). Sustainable Waste Management (Extended Producer Responsibility) Regulations, 2024 (Legal Notice No. 176). Kenya Law. https://new.kenyalaw.org/akn/ke/act/ln/2024/176/eng@2024-12-06 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
38. Rodrik, D. (2004). Industrial policy for the twenty-first century (KSG Faculty Research Working Paper No. RWP04-047). Harvard University. https://www.hks.harvard.edu/publications/industrial-policy-twenty-first-century [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
39. Roever, S. (2014). Informal economy monitoring study sector report: Street vendors. Women in Informal Employment: Globalizing and Organizing. https://www.wiego.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/IEMS-Sector-Full-Report-Street-Vendors.pdf [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
40. Sandin, G., & Peters, G. M. (2018). Environmental impact of textile reuse and recycling—A review. Journal of Cleaner Production, 184, 353–365. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.02.266 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
41. Sen, A. (1999). Development as freedom. Alfred A. Knopf. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
42. Snyder, H. (2019). Literature review as a research methodology: An overview and guidelines. Journal of Business Research, 104, 333–339. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2019.07.039 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
43. Thaler, R. H. (1985). Mental accounting and consumer choice. Marketing Science, 4(3), 199–214. https://doi.org/10.1287/mksc.4.3.199 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
44. Torraco, R. J. (2016). Writing integrative literature reviews: Using the past and present to explore the future. Human Resource Development Review, 15(4), 404–428. https://doi.org/10.1177/1534484316671606 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
45. Waki, N. (2024, March 25). Kenya’s second-hand clothes traders lobby against EU export restrictions. Reuters. https://www.reuters.com/world/africa/kenyas-second-hand-clothes-traders-lobby-against-eu-export-restrictions-2024-03-25/ [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
46. Wallerstein, I. (2004). World-systems analysis: An introduction. Duke University Press. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
47. Waltz, K. N. (1979). Theory of international politics. Addison-Wesley. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
48. Were, A. (2016). Manufacturing in Kenya: Features, challenges and opportunities: A scoping exercise. Supporting Economic Transformation Programme. https://set.odi.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Manufacturing-in-Kenya-Anzetse-Were.pdf [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
49. Whitfield, L., Therkildsen, O., Buur, L., & Kjær, A. M. (2015). The politics of African industrial policy: A comparative perspective. Cambridge University Press. https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9781316225509 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
50. Whittemore, R., & Knafl, K. (2005). The integrative review: Updated methodology. Journal of Advanced Nursing, 52(5), 546–553. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2648.2005.03621.x [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
51. Wolff, E. A. (2021). The global politics of African industrial policy: The case of the used clothing ban in Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda. Review of International Political Economy, 28(5), 1308–1331. https://doi.org/10.1080/09692290.2020.1751240 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
52. World Bank Group. (2015). Kenya apparel and textile industry: Diagnosis, strategy and action plan. https://doi.org/10.1596/22782 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
53. World Bank. (2025). Kenya imports of worn clothing and other worn articles, 2023 (HS 630900) [Data set]. World Integrated Trade Solution. https://wits.worldbank.org/trade/comtrade/en/country/KEN/year/2023/tradeflow/Imports/partner/ALL/product/630900 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
54. World Customs Organization. (2023). WCO customs risk management compendium. https://www.wcoomd.org/en/topics/facilitation/instrument-and-tools/tools/risk-management-compendium [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
55. World Trade Organization. (2019). Trade policy review: East African Community (EAC) (WT/TPR/S/384). https://www.wto.org/english/tratop_e/tpr_e/s384_e.pdf [Google Scholar] [Crossref]
Metrics
Views & Downloads
Similar Articles
- Global Political Economy and Educational Reforms in the Global South: An Evolutionary Study of Ghana
- Electoral Militarization and the Challenges of Free and Fair Elections in Nigeria: A Focus on the 2023 Presidential Election
- Political Awareness and Engagement in Relation to Voting Behavior among College Students
- Role of Community Leaders in Ensuring Secure Electoral Process in Nairobi City County, Kenya
- Assessing the Delivery of Local Disaster Management Services and Client Satisfaction through SERVQUAL Dimensions