Beyond Machinery: Understanding Technology through Local Knowledge in Natural Textile Dyeing

Natural textile dyeing represents one of the earliest forms of human technological practice developed through continuous interaction with natural resources and local environments. Despite growing interest in sustainability and traditional knowledge, technology is frequently associated with machinery, industrial production, and laboratory-based innovation, resulting in limited recognition of the technological knowledge embedded within traditional dyeing practices. This paper aims to examine how technology is understood and practiced through local knowledge system in natural textile dyeing. Drawing upon previous findings, document analysis, and relevant literature on local knowledge and natural dyeing practices, this conceptual paper discusses broader understandings of technology in traditional textile production. This discussion highlights that technology in natural dyeing is not confined to machinery but is embedded in a sequence of interconnected practices, including material selection, fabric preparation, colour extraction, mordanting, dyeing, finishing, and evaluation, all of which are informed by accumulated knowledge and environmental understanding. The paper argues that technology should be understood as a system of practice in which knowledge, techniques, materials, and environmental interactions collectively shape the production and transmission of natural dyeing knowledge within a cultural context. It concludes that traditional natural dyeing constitutes a legitimate technological system, demonstrating that technology can be expressed through local knowledge and cultural practice as much as through mechanical innovation, thereby contributing to discussions on cultural sustainability, heritage preservation, and sustainable textile development.

Local knowledge, traditional technology, natural textile dyeing, cultural heritage, sustainable textile practices

1. Abel, A. (2017). The History of Dyes and Pigments: from Natural Dyes to High Performance Pigments. In Colour Design: Theories and Applications (p. 557). Elsevier. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

2. Achmad Sopandi Haji Hasan. (2003). Nilai-Nilai Perwatakan Melayu Dalam Imej Warna: Satu Penelitian Etnografi Seni. Seminar Za’ba Mengenai Alam Melayu, 1–10. http://melayu.library.uitm.edu.my/3141/ [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

3. Adeel, S., Habib, N., Arif, S., Rehman, F. ur, Azeem, M., Batool, F., & Amin, N. (2020). Microwave-assisted eco-dyeing of bio mordanted silk fabric using cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum Verum) based yellow natural dye. Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy, 17(July), 100306. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scp.2020.100306 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

4. Adetoun Adedotun Amubode. (2009). Strategies for Economically Sustainable Resist Dyeing Industries in Abeokuta, Ogun State, Nigeria. University of Southampton. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

5. Adjaye, C. (2024). Exploring Natural Colors from Ochre and Plants to Paint and Print. The University of Maine. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

6. Ahmad, A. B., & Mujani, W. K. (2012). Aspek - aspek Sains dan Teknologi dalam Pembinaan Masjid di Melaka pada Abad ke-8: Satu Tinjauan. In A. L. Samian, N. Muslim, & H. Haron (Eds.), Sains dan Teknologi di Alam Melayu (pp. 44–45). Institut Alam dan Tamadun Melayu (ATMA). [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

7. Anita Tyagi. (2011). Chaging Technology in Textile Industry. In Textile Design and Technology (1st ed., pp. 207–208). SONALI PUBLICATIONS. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

8. Asimaki, A. (2014). Habitus: An Attempt at a Thorough Analysis of a Controversial Concept in Pierre Bourdieu’s Theory of Practice. Social Sciences, 3(4), 121. https://doi.org/10.11648/j.ss.20140304.13 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

9. Asimaki, A., & Koustourakis, G. (2014). Habitus: An Attempt at a Thorough Analysis of a Controversial Concept in Pierre Bourdieu’s Theory of Practice. Social Sciences, 3(4), 121–131. https://doi.org/10.11648/j.ss.20140304.13 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

10. Ayele, M., Tesfaye, T., Alemu, D., Limeneh, M., & Sithole, B. (2020). Natural dyeing of cotton fabric with extracts from mango tree: A step towards sustainable dyeing. Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy, 17(June), 100293. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scp.2020.100293 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

11. Aziz, H., Abullah, Z., Ghani, Y. A., & Noor, S. F. M. (2016). Kearifan Tempatan (Local Genius) Penduduk Melayu Terengganu dalam Persekitaran Maritim Laut China Selatan. Persidangan Antarabangsa Pengajian Alam Melayu, September, 154–166. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

12. Aziz, M. Z. A. (1994). Pendahuluan. In Busana Melayu. Jabatan Muzium Malaysia. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

13. Bardhan, A., & Bhattacharya, A. (2022). Role of Traditional Crafts in Sustainable Development and Building Community Resilience : Case Stories from India. Ience. Culture. Society. Economy. Politics, 2(1), 38–50. https://doi.org/10.2478/csep-2022-0004 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

14. Bebit, M. P., & Ibrahim, I. (2013). Warna Tradisional Sabah: Konteks Tradisi Lisan dan Penghasilan Kraf. In M. K. A. Rahman, N. Zainun, & Rahimah A. Hamid (Eds.), Kearifan Tempatan: Pengalaman Nusantara: Jilid 2-Meneliti Kosmologi dan Adat Istiadat (1st ed., pp. 171–197). Universiti Sains Malaysia. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

15. Belfer, N. (1992). Batik and Tie Dye Techniques (3rd ed.). Dover Publications. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

16. Canagarajah, S. (2002). Reconstructing Local Knowledge. Journal of Language, Identity & Education, 1(4), 243–259. https://doi.org/10.1207/S15327701JLIE0104_1 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

17. Choudhury, A. K. R. (2018). Eco-Friendly Dyes and Dyeing (pp. 145–177). [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

18. Cohen, J. H. (2001). Textile, tourism and community development. Annals of Tourism Research, 28(2), 378–398. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0160-7383(00)00060-8 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

19. Diksha, M., Kesarkar, R. G., Rathod, A. R., Deshmukh, S. M., & Ingole, P. M. (2022). Review on Conventional and Novel Methods for Extraction of Curcumin. Gradiva Review Journal, 8(3), 7–14. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

20. Erawati, E., Patria Sari, R., & Hidayati, S. (2012). Pemanfaatan Limbah Daun Mangga sebagai Pewarna Alam pada Kain Katun dan Sutera. WARTA, 15(2), 124–131. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

21. Eric Schatzberg. (2018). Technology: Critical History of a Concept. University of Chicago Press. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

22. Eric Schatzberg. (2025). Concepts of the History of Technique: Technology. In History of Techniques (pp. 81–96). [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

23. Ernawi, I. S. (2009). Kearifan Lokal dalam Perspektif Penataan Ruang. In R. Wikantiyoso & P. Tutuko (Eds.), Kearifan Lokal: Dalam Perencanaan dan Perancangan Kota untuk Mewujudkan Arsitektur Kota yang Berkelanjutan (1st ed., pp. 6–19). Group Konservasi Arsitektur & Kota. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

24. Geelani, S. M., Ara, S., Mir, N. A., Bhat, S. J. A., Mishra, P. K., M., H. O., & Qazi, G. (2013). Natural Dyeing of Fabrics using Quercus robur L. (Fruit cups) Dye and Punica Granatum L. (peel) Mordant. The Journal of Phytopharmacology, 2(6), 52–58. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

25. Ghani, A. A. (2009). Ikat Limar: Analysis of Form and Design. Universiti Teknologi MARA. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

26. Ghani, A. A., & Zakaria, R. M. A. (2013). Tradition & Continuity: Woven and Decorated Textiles of the Malay Peninsula (H. N. Barakat, A. A. Ghani, & J. J. Heyes (eds.); 1st ed.). Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

27. Gupta, V. K. (2019). Fundamental of Natural Dyes and Its Application on Textile Substrates. In Cheminstry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments. https://doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.89964 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

28. Haron, H., & Yusof, N. A. (2014). Motifs of Nature in Malay Traditional Craft. Middle-East Journal of Scientific Research, 21(1), 169–180. https://doi.org/10.5829/idosi.mejsr.2014.21.01.21132 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

29. Hasan, A. S. (2003). Lukisan Gua di Malaysia (1st ed.). Balai Seni Lukis Negara. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

30. Hastuti, E., Julianti, D., Erlangga, D., & Oswari, T. (2013). Kearifan Lokal Sosial Budaya Masyarakat Minang. Proceeding PESAT(Psikologi, Ekonomi, Sastra, Arsitektur & Teknik Sipil), 5, 1–7. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

31. Hermayulis., Hernadewita, & Che Husna Azhari. (2014). Pengaruh Alam Persekitaran terhadap Perkembangan Ilmu Pengetahuan dan Teknologi dalam Bidang Pakaian pada Masyarakat Nusantara di Indonesia. Prosiding Seminar Antarabangsa Ke-4 Arkeologi, Sejarah Dan Budaya Di Alam Melayu, 942. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

32. Horn, M. J., & Gurel, L. M. (1968). The Second Skin (3rd ed.). Houghton Mifflin. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

33. Hussin, N. S. M., Ismail, A. R., Kadir, N. A., Hasbullah, S. W., Hassan, H., & Jusoh, N. (2020). Resurgence the local knowledge: Environmental catalysis practiced in local textile dyeing. IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science, 616(1). https://doi.org/10.1088/1755-1315/616/1/012043 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

34. Ismail, S. Z. (2018). Reka Bentuk Kraf Tangan Melayu Tradisi (2nd ed.). Dewan Bahasa dan Pustaka. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

35. Kadir, N. A., & Hamid, R. A. (2013). Ciptaan Bahan Pewarna dan Reka Corak Batik Malaysia. In M. K. A. Rahman, N. Zainun, & R. A. Hamid (Eds.), Kearifan Tempatan: Pengalaman Nusantara: Jilid 2-Meneliti Kosmologi dan Adat Istiadat (pp. 131–151). Universiti Sains Malaysia. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

36. Kanchana, R., Fernandes, A., Bhat, B., Budkule, S., Dessai, S., & Mohan, R. (2013). Dyeing Of Textiles With Natural Dyes - An Eco-Friendly Approach. International Journal of ChemTech Research, 5(5), 2102–2109. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

37. Karabulut, K., & Atav, R. (2020). Dyeing of Cotton Fabric with Natural Dyes without Mordant Usage Part I : Determining the Most Suitable Dye Plants for Dyeing and UV Protective Functionalization. Fibers and Polymers, 21(8), 1773–1782. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12221-020-9365-2 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

38. Kechot, A. S., Din, M. A. O., Latif, A. A., Abdullah, H., & Nuawi, M. Z. (2012). Pelestarian Alat Muzik Tradisional Melayu Melalui Dokumentasi dan Pembangunan Teknologi: Kajian terhadap Teknologi Rebab di Malaysia. In A. L. Samian, N. Muslim, & H. Haron (Eds.), Sains dan Teknologi di Alam Melayu (pp. 13–22). Institut Alam dan Tamadun Melayu (ATMA). [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

39. Khattak, S. P., Rafique, S., Hussain, T., Inayat, F., & Ahmad, B. (2015). Colour Fastness and Tensile Strength of Cotton Fabric Dyed with Natural Extracts of Alkanna tinctoria by Continuous Dyeing Technique. 37(05), 903–909. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

40. Koch, G., Bella, G., Helm, P., & Giunchiglia, F. (2024). Layers of technology in pluriversal design . Decolonising language technology with the LiveLanguage initiative. CoDesign, 20(1), 77–90. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

41. Koetjaraningrat. (2002). Pengantar Ilmu Antropologi (8th ed.). PT RINEKA CIPTA. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

42. Krisnawati, M., Cahyani, I. W. N., Paramita, O., & Kusumastuti, A. (2022). Textile Natural Dye Powder of Terminalia Catappa Leaves. IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science, 969(1). https://doi.org/10.1088/1755-1315/969/1/012038 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

43. Kumar, R., & Tripathi, Y. C. (2011). Natural Dye from Forest Biomass. In Training Manual on Extraction Technology of Natural Dye & Aroma Therapy and Cultivation Value Addition of Medicinal Plants (1st ed.). Forest Research Institute, Dehradun. https://doi.org/10.13140/2.1.4934.9927 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

44. Liviawati, L., Putri, G. E., & Wardi, J. (2021). Pelatihan Penggunaan Media Sosial (Medsos) dalam Mempromosikan Produk Lokal di Kecamatan Bunut. Jurnal Manajemen Pendidikan Dan Pelatihan, 5(2). https://www.ejournal.kompetif.com/index.php/diklatreview/article/view/575%0Ahttps://www.ejournal.kompetif.com/index.php/diklatreview/article/download/575/518 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

45. Makhunton, S., Chantanchon, S., & Phothibat, P. (2014). Integration of the Local Wisdom of Natural-dyed Mud-treated Silk in Thailand for Creative Economy. Advanced Materials Research, 860–863, 2695–2699. https://doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/AMR.860-863.2695 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

46. Nawawi, N., Aziz, A., & Legino, R. (2015). The Nature of Malay Songket Textile Pattern. Business and Management Quarterly Review, 6(2/3), 41–56. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

47. Nawawi, N. M. (2016). Ikat Limar: The Ancient Malay Textile (1st ed.). Dewan Bahasa dan Pustaka. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

48. Norwani Md. Nawawi. (2016). Colours in Ikat Limar. In Ikat Limar: The Ancient Malay Textile (1st ed., p. 147). Dewan Bahasa dan Pustaka. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

49. Nygren, A. (1999). Local Knowledge in the Environment - Development Discourse: from dichotomies to situated knowledges. Critique of Anthropology, 19(3), 267–288. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

50. Olsen, B. (2003). Material culture after text: Re-membering things. Norwegian Archaeological Review, 36(2), 87–104. https://doi.org/10.1080/00293650310000650 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

51. Potsangbam, L., Ningombam, S., & Laitonjam, W. S. (2008). Natural Dye Yielding Plants and Indigenous Knowledge of Dyeing in Manipur, Northeast India. Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge, 7(1), 141–147. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

52. Power, E. M. (1999). An Introduction to Pierre Bourdieu’s Key Theoritical Concepts. Journal for the Study of Food and Society, 3(1), 48–52. https://doi.org/http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/152897999786690753 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

53. Prijotomo, J. (2009). CERLANG TARA, Bukan Kearifan Lokal: Catatan bagi ke-liyan-an Arsitektur Nusantara. In R. Wikantiyoso & P. Tutuko (Eds.), Kearifan Lokal: Dalam Perencanaan dan Perancangan Kota untuk Mewujudkan Arsitektur Kota yang Berkelanjutan (1st ed., pp. 46–64). Group Konservasi Arsitektur & Kota. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

54. Pringgenies, D., Supriyantini, E., Azizah, R., Hartati, R., Irwani, & Radjasa, O. K. (2013). Aplikasi Pewarnaan Bahan Alam Mangrove Untuk Bahan Batik Sebagai Diversifikasi Usaha Di Desa Binaan Kabupaten Semarang. Info, 15(1), 1–9. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

55. Ramić, D. R. (2024). The Role of the Greek Term Techné in the Area of Today ’ s Government of Information Technology and Technological Progress. European Journal of Computer Science and Information Technology, 12(8), 41–47. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

56. Ridwan, N. A. (2007). Landasan Keilmuan Kearifan Lokal. Jurnal Studi Islam Dan Budaya, 5(1), 27–38. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

57. Roengthanapiboon, N., Sindhuphak, A., Kijmongkolvanich, S., & Egwutvongsa, S. (2024). Sustainable D evelopment : Development of Wisdom for Dyeing Natural Fibers Used to Create Community Textile Products. AgBioForum, 26(1), 137–146. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

58. Rohidi, T. R. (2011). Metodologi Penelitian Seni (1st ed.). Cipta Prima Nusantara Semarang. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

59. Salehan, F., Mohamed, F., Hassan, S., Kassim, Z., Nor, R. M., & Samsudin, S. M. (2009). Seni Kraf Batik: Pewarnaan Asli (D. H. M. Zain (ed.)). Institut Kraf Negara. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

60. Samanta, A. K., & Konar, A. (2011). Dyeing of Textiles with Natural Dyes. In E. P. A. Kumbasar (Ed.), Natural Dyes (1st ed., p. 30). INTECH. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

61. Sanli, H. S., Kayabasi, N., & Olmez, F. N. (2011). Dyeing Technique and Mordanting Methods Applied in Natural Dyeing of Wool in Turkey. Asian Journal of Chemistry, 23(8), 3313–3316. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

62. Schetky, E. J. M. (1969). Dye Plants and Dyeing - a Handbook (C. H. Woodward (ed.); 4th ed.). Brooklyn Botanic Garden. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

63. Shaari, N., & Abd Rahman, K. A. A. (2014). Application of Metroxylon Sago Waste in Textile Process. Archives of Design Research, 27(3), 7–15. https://doi.org/http://dx.doi.org/10.15187/adr.2014.08.111.3.7 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

64. Shaari, N., & Wahab, S. A. (2010). Indigenous product of emotion. International Conference of Kansei Engineering and Emotion Research 2010. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

65. Sharma, A., & Singh, B. J. (2020). Evolution of Industrial Revolutions : A Review Evolution of Industrial Revolutions : A Review. International Journal of Innovative Technology and Exploring Engineering, 3075(11), 66–73. https://doi.org/10.35940/ijitee.I7144.0991120 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

66. Silvia Fernández Sabido, & Sabido, L. P. (2025). Redefining Technology for Indigenous Language. ArXiv Preprint ArXiv:2504.01522. https://arxiv.org/pdf/2504.01522 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

67. Siti Zainon Ismail. (1990). Tekstil Melayu : Sejarah Fungsi , Simbol dan Keindahan. Malaysia Dari Segi Sejarah, 18, 50–66. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

68. Swami, C., Saini, S., & Gupta, V. B. (2012). Extraction of a Natural Dye from Sesbania aculeata Plant. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 7(4), 1–13. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

69. Taif, B., Hernida, S., Som, M., Zinnirah, U., & Yusof, M. (2017). Extraction of Natural Dyes from Clitoria Ternatea Flower. PEOPLE: International Journal of Social Science, 3(1), 81–90. http://grdspublishing.org/ [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

70. Tengku Shaheera Tuan Zainal Abidin., Mohd Rozi Ahmad, Muhammad Ismail Ab Kadir, Nor Juliana Mohd Yusof, & Wan Yunus Wan Ahmad. (2016). Ultrasound Dyeing of Polyester using Natural Colorant from Melastoma Malabathricum l. Advance Materials Research, 1134, 66–69. https://doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/AMR.1134.66 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

71. Twigger Holroyd, A., Cassidy, T., Evans, M., & Walker, S. (2017). Wrestling with Tradition: Revitalizing the Orkney Chair and Other Culturally Significant Crafts. Design and Culture, 9(3), 283–299. https://doi.org/10.1080/17547075.2017.1370310 [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

72. UNESCO. (2015). Intangible Cultural Heritage and Sustainable Development. file:///D:/Paper Download for Mendeley References/34299-EN.pdf [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

73. Widagdo, J. (2017). Pemanfaatan Sumber Daya Alam sebagai Bahan Pewarna Jati. Jurnal DISPROTEK, 8(1), 67–80. [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

74. Yang, R., Zhang, Y., Ranjitkar, S., Li, M., Guo, Y., & Yan, X. (2020). Traditional Knowledge of Plant Dyeing, Sustainable Practices and Potential for Improved Techniques by Monpa in Tibet, China. https://www.researchsquare.com/article/rs-116796/latest.pdf [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

75. Zarkogianni, M., Mikropoulou, E., Varella, E., & Tsatsaroni, E. (2010). Colour and fastness of natural dyes: Revival of traditional dyeing techniques. Coloration Technology, 127, 18–27. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2010.00273.x [Google Scholar] [Crossref]

• LeafQuest: A Mobile-Based Augmented Reality for Plant Placement, Discovery, and Growth
• Participatory Ergonomic Intervention Approach on Musculoskeletal Disorder (MSD) in Construction Sectors: A Systematic Review
• Integrating GIS into Traffic Incident Management: A Web-Based System
• RideSmart: A Personalized Motorcycle Product Recommendation System Using TF-IDF and Descriptive Analytics for Javidson Motorshop
• Educational Technology Course Design in Pre-Service Teachers Education: A Bibliometric Review of the Research Landscape